MUMBAI - NIZAM’S HERITAGE
The flavor of Hyderabad is as distinctively royal as the Nizams who were its discerning patrons: lavish, elaborate and colorful. Yet it is deeply rooted in the earthy produce of its native soil.
It is perhaps this fascinating fusion of robust substance with delicate elegance that gives Hyderabadi cuisine its unmistakeable elan.
The Nizam’s Heritage restaurant in bustling Byculla brings to Mumbai this regal repertoire of fragrant shorbas, spicy salans, tender tikiyas and tingling tarkaris.
The cool white 51-cover room is tastefully touched with period artefacts: framed black and white pictures of erstwhile royalty, statuary and gilt-touched miniatures... A champagne-colored mini chandelier picks up the rosy blush of the marble floor below, and the blue motif border along the ceiling finds echoes in the tableware.
A glass-walled open kitchen enabled us to watch the chef in his crisply pleated hat fashion the highlights of our meal the typically Hyderabadi pathar ka gosht (Rs 120) and the unusual onion sheekh kababs (Rs 75). Literally seared on a gleaming slab of black granite stone, the flattened escalopes of marinated mutton bore a delicately spiced flavor very different from that of smoky kababs. Equally delightful, and not only for the vegetarians,were the onion sheekhs superbly marrying minced onions, mint and soft cottage cheese.
One could also start with the very Hyderabadi murg nagina, deep fried and flavored with curry leaves and green chillies, or the spicy talc hua gosht. The gurda kaleji bhuni are lamb kidneys and liver marinated in spiced yoghurt, almonds and cashewnuts, while jhinge zamruddhi are pan-fried prawns in green herbs (Rs 105-140). Equally authentic are the luqmisquare samosas. There’s mainstream fare here too, such as kaln-ti, sheekh and shammi kababs (Rs 110120), as well as shorbas (Rs 40-50), or thin broths. The chicken yakhni, mutton marag and tomato or dal shorba are all spiked with herbs and fried onions.
The menu features the revival of a hundred-year-old recipe! Dating back to the Asaf Jahi dynasty, the malai boti (Rs 125) swathes boneless lamb in a rich creamy base, just as the name suggests. Almost as ancient is the recipe used by the restaurant’s Hyderabad-trained khansamas to prepare machhi korma nizami (Rs 140).
A medley of lamb, chicken and vegetables (Rs 50-140) are transformed into exotica by inspired additions of tamarind, ground peanuts, sesame seeds et al.. like the tangy mane or fish khalia we ordered. Or the dalcha gosht, where chickpeas and tamarind make an interesting gravy. Hyderabad’s famous baghare baigain and mirchi ka salan are here, of course. So is khabooti, the special Hyderabadistyle khichdi. We were, however, impressed by the presence of haleem, an unmistakeably Deccan meat and wheat porridge that is all too rarely seen on restaurant menus.
Various rotis and raitas (Rs 50) serve as mellow counterpoints to the tongue tingling fare. But undoubtedly, the prima donna of the menu is the famous Hyderabadi katchi biryani (Rs 120). Here marinated raw lamb is cooked with the rice and spices, and not separately, thus infusing each fragrant and fluffy grain of rice with the rich flavor of the meat.
Nor do the desserts flop to the predictable ice creams and gulab jamuns. To entice the sweet-toothed are true-blue Hyderabadi specialities like khubani ka meetha (chilled stewed apricots with fresh cream), and E ka lauz—delicately baked eggs, dabbal ka meethaa marvellously rich and very royal bread pudding and kheer motia dana, featuring bottle gourd and sago (Rs 35-50).
Replete, and, happily, not burdened by overdoses of grease or spice, we recalled reEWading that the Qutab Shahi and Asaf Jahi kings of Hyderabad had elavated food to the sublime status of an art form. Nizam’s Heritage revives that delicious tradition.
Nizam’s Heritage, Hotel Heritage, Opp. Gloria Church, Santa Savta Mar& Byculla, Mumbai