India Voyages » Kovalam Beach

Returning outdoors, the Shanghumukhom or conch shell beach was once fresh, clean and white, before the effluents from a nearby factory polluted the waters and dirtied the sands. Still, in the evenings the beach is crowded with sunset watchers, though bathing in the sea is not safe. A few kilometers away, the Veli Tourist Village is a pleasant picnic spot with some boating and pony rides thrown in.

The most famous beach, of course, is Kovalam, about 15 km from Thiruvananthapuram city. Internationally renowned, Kovalam is considered by many to be the best beach in India. Its three crescent-shaped, palm-fringed beaches are ideally suited for swimming, sun-bathing, catamaran cruising and so on, and attract large numbers of foreign tourists every year. In spite of the innumerable lodges and eateries that have sprung up all over the sea shore, Kovalam is still relatively unspoilt and far less corrupt than similar beaches else- where in the country. From time to time, cultural festivals and programs are held here, and visitors can enjoy fairly authentic performances of typically Keralite dance forms like Kathakali and Mohiniyattam, and the martial art Kalari- Payat. Needless to say, such programs are all geared to the needs of the foreigner, who, after all, is chiefly responsible for the cash flow!

Also, in a bid to exploit the current popularity of ethno medicine in the West, Ayurvedic treatment and Yoga therapy centers seem to have sprouted everywhere in and around Kovalam. The rates for these ministrations are quoted in dollars, and usually range from $ 30 to over $1,000! They appear to do little harm. Indeed, some of the treatments may even do some good by I virtue of their novelty, and the calmness of mind, the equipoise and the fortitude which they seem to demand and induce.

In any case, foreign tourists pay good money to have themselves oiled and pickled, plastered with mud or herbs or poultices, buried in the sand, dunked in water of varying temperatures, steamed and smoked and purged, massaged, pummelled and pounded, twisted and stretched and hyperventilated, and go away feeling the richer for the experience.

Kovalam beach is beautiful indeed, but what attracts foreign tourists is the fact that it is also quite inexpensive.

Kovalam caters to all budgets, but for native tourists it is not exactly cheap. And though a great number of Indian tourists visit the place, few stay there and fewer still can afford to stay for long. Kovalam’s economy is thus tied in with the influx of foreign tourists. If they arrive in strength, then all is well; if not, things begin to fall apart. This season, for instance, was unsatisfactory.

So, the same old story again. Every Garden of Eden has its serpent, every bed of roses its quota of thorns. Reality must always fall short of our expectations, and prosperity can never keep pace with anticipation, or desire, or greed.

As for Thiruvananthapuram, this one-time paradise is now a bit frayed round the edges. Overcrowding has struck deep at the city’s vitality. Indiscriminate felling of trees has all but denuded this once beautiful town. At the time of writing,the century-old mahogany trees in the campus of the University College, in the heart of the city, are facing the threat of the axe.

On the other hand, there is very little real violence here, and very little fanaticism. Life for the most part ambles on at a sedate pace, without fuss, and without the reckless hurry that characterizes life in bigger cities. No, Thiruvananthapuram is no paradise, but visitors seem to fall in love with the place. And having once come, they never fail to return.

How and Where
Thiruvananthapuram (TVM), at the south-western tip of India, is easily accessed by air, rail and road. Aside from daily domestic flights to different parts of the country (operated by Indian Airlines and Jet Airways), the TVM airport has over 30 air links with connections to Colombo, the Maldives and the Middle East.

Direct trains connect TVM to all the major cities in India and reservations can be made in advance from any computerized reservation center of the railways. Some of the more important trains from TVM and their departure.

Frequent buses connect TVM with most important towns in South India. Privately-run luxury coach services to Bangalore and Chennai are convenient and comfortable. The weather is generally pleasant and light cottons suffice throughout the year. In peak summer it can be sultry, and umbrellas are a must in the rainy season (mid-May to September). For moving around in the city, autorickshaws can be hired. The fare is metered. Or, use the city bus service.

Entry into the Sreepadamanabhaswamy Temple is restricted to Hindus. A strict dress code is to be observed: men must be bare bodied and wear dhotis and women must wear saris. Dhotis can be rented for the purpose near the temple, but they are often dirty and best avoided.
The Horse Palace museum is open on all days except Mondays, from 8.30 am to 1 pm and from 3 pm to 5.30 pm. An entry fee of Rs 10 is charged per person and Rs 15 per still camera. Photography is not allowed inside the museum though one can snap the buildings from outside.

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