Travel Destination » Travel to Puerto Galera, Philippines

Puerto Galera, PHILIPPINES
Sometimes the pessimists are proved wrong. A superb stretch of coastline a short distance south of Manila is a case in point. Puerto Galera with its magnificent beaches, coral reefs and sheltered, palm fringed harbour — once a refuge for Spanish galleons — is the sort of place which greed and unfettered development can swiftly destroy. But a mixture of good fortune and good sense have, so far, saved this Philippines gem from the worst sins of exploitation. Not only that, reefs that were once badly damaged by illegal fishing methods have recovered; and seas that were once being over-fished are now teeming with marine life. Both local residents and ecology-conscious newcomers can see the value in preserving the area’s natural heritage. The influx of divers and other tourists has, in this case had a beneficial effect, raising the local residents’ standard of living while helping to protect the environment. Puerto Galera is impressive, right from the first sight. Then, as you absorb its atmosphere, you begin to understand that, though the Spanish treasure galleons may be long gone, other riches of more lasting value remains.

THE JEWEL OF MINDORO
Your first sight of Puerto Galera is breathtaking. As your ferry nears the shore, you get the impression something is badly wrong with the steering and you’re about to ram the line of grey cliffs towering up in front of you. Then, very suddenly, the ferry swings in through a narrow entrance channel and a magnificent panorama opens up. You’re in an enclosed bay of flat, turquoise water and all around the winding shoreline you can see sheltered coves, white sand beaches and clusters of quaint huts. Motorised bancas scurry across the bay, while small sailing bancas glide peacefully past sleek yachts and the fishing boats that bob at their moorings. Behind it all, lush, green ridges rise steeply to massive mountains, summits hidden in cloud.

You are witnessing the same sweeping vistas — largely unscathed — that greeted the Spaniards four centuries ago. This natural harbour, a sanctuary for fishermen and seafaring traders since time immemorial, takes its name from the Spanish treasure galleons that sheltered here from typhoons and storms. Today, Puerto Galera — rich in vibrant, natural beauty both above the surface and beneath its crystalline waters — is also a sanctuary for tourists and modern mariners in cruising yachts. It has one of the most beautiful harbours in Asia, and this wholearea of coves, beaches and small islands is one of the jewels of the Philippines.

A series of fortuitous circumstances have helped preserve Puerto Galera’s natural beauty. Around the turn of the century a number of the wealthier residents of Manila found Puerto’s charm and serenity an ideal respite from the hustle and bustle of the capital. They started visiting on a regular basis, and built country houses here. Their children. and their children’s children, maintained this tradition, and under their protective patronage Puerto Galera has been spared from the unfettered commercial development that has ravaged many other once-beautiful destinations throughout the Asian region. During the 1960s and 1970s tourists began to discover Puerto Galera. First came adventurous backpackers. But they were soon followed by a more mainstream type of traveller, and by the 1980s tourism had become Puerto Galera’s major industry. Today it is one of the Philippines’ most popular sports diving and resort destinations. Tourism facilities have grown steadily, but — unlike other areas in Asia — the area has not been overwhelmed by development. These days, with the influx of recreational divers and ecominded travellers, tourists and their dollars are actually helping to ensure the protection and preservation of the local environment.

Right from the beginning, limits were placed on the development of tourism facilities inside the harbour and on its foreshores. This has helped preserve the peace and charm of the Puerto Galera township and the surrounding settlements. The town itself nestles in a small cove at the end of the harbour, and spreads out from from the quayside over a saddle to another large cove at the back.

The harbour is essentially an enclosed bay with a big island right in the mouth, which creates two narrow entrance passage. Along the eastern entrance, known as the Batangas Channel, are two small villages and the local boatyard; while the western entrance, the Manila Channel, remains undeveloped with only a few fishing bancas lining its white sand beaches. Private beach houses lie hidden among coconut groves on the hillsides and two small resorts front the beach at Boquete, on Paniquian Island.

The harbour, mirroring the era of the Manila galleons, is dominated by 40 or more sailing yachts moored off the Puerto Galera Yacht Club and in surrounding coves. Most resort development is spread out over several beaches and sheltered coves that face into the open seas of the Verde Passage. These tourist hot spots stretch along more than30km of coastline, and vary from the nips hut resort and nightclub congestion of Sabang Beach to up-market resorts like Coco Beach, with private beaches, swimming pools and landscaped grounds. Puerto Galera has something for everybody and for all budgets. The charm of these places, and the beauty of the environment, would undoubtedly be enough to draw a steady stream of visitors. But in recent years what has made Puerto Galera even more popular is the quality of the outdoors activities on offer — and the most popular of all is scuba diving.

RAINBOW REEFS
Diving at Puerto Galera was pretty much an ad hoc affair until the mid-1980s when Brian Homan, an Australian, opened Capt’n Greggs, the first dedicated dive centre and resort, on Sabang Beach. Today there are more facilities here than at any other diving area in the country. It’s not surprising: this is a superb diving destination. Its position on the Verde Passage means the reefs here are constantly swept by tidal currents surging up and down the channel — ideal conditions for coral growth. As a result, the reef systems are prolific, with an outstanding abundance and variety of coral, a vast array of reef fish and hundreds of different species of colourful creatures, large and small. The Verde Passage is deep, and frequented by pelagics, so it’s also not uncommon to bump into some big visitors even when you’re diving relatively close to shore. Another major plus point is the convenience. Many dive sites are just off the beach in front of the resorts, or are less than 15 minutes away by motorized banca. With a bare minimum of effort you can dive as much — or as little — as you like, and the diversity of underwater life is guaranteed to keep interest levels high, and have you coming back for more.

That being said, you shouldn’t come to Puerto Galera expecting another Palau or Maldives. There isn’t an abundance of big fish, or an endless expanse of spectacular drop-offs. Instead, come here to relax, dive with very competent operators and enjoy some of the most vivid and varied reef ecosystems you’ll find anywhere. Puerto Galera has been a marine sanctuary since the early 1970s and, unlike other less-fortunate designated marine sanctuaries in the Philippines, both residents and operators support marine conservation and police the reefs. The steady growth of diving tourism has been synonymous with the steady regrowth of local reefs, once heavily damaged and depleted by over-fishing and illegal fishing methods. The area is very popular with underwater photographers and is a paradise for macro enthusiasts, who find an almost unlimited supply of subjects just off the beach.

Experienced divers and underwater photographers often discover as much satisfaction from the shallower dives as the deeper and more dangerous ones, simply because of the mass of colourful corals, marine life and fish that thrive there.

There are about 25 dive sites within easy reach of the major resorts, and many more dives lie an hour away, off Verde, Bonito, Malajibonmanok, Maricaban and Sombrero Islands. Underwater experiences here vary from shallow, still-water dives in conditions that are ideal for novices — though also enjoyable for experienced divers — through to high-voltage drift dives in strong currents, deep wall dives and even wreck diving. Larger pelagic species are now rising from the depths of the Verde Island Passage, and it is becoming common to see reef sharks, the occasional tiger shark, tuna, barracuda, and even whale sharks and mantas off the deeper wall dives. Dolphins are also occasionally spotted, but have long memories and are still very wary of divers. Visibility is generally around 20m, but can reach 30m on a flood tide at some of the deeper dives. High-voltage dives not to be missed include Hole in the Wall, The Canyons and Fish Bowl off Escarceo Point; and East Point and Washing Machine off Verde Island. All of these are drift dives in strong currents and are only for experienced divers, accompanied by an experienced local dive guide.

Hole in the Wall begins, at 9m in well-lit water, with fields of magnificent table corals. The hole, a 3m passage about 1 m in diameter, leads through a rock wall, and is covered with multi-coloured sponges and crinoids. Nearby is a small crevice called Shark Cave, where you’ll often find one or two small white tip reef sharks lazing about. From here, assuming your dive master has his timing right, you can hitch a ride on a current that will sweep you straight over to The Canyons.

This is a real roller-coaster ride for advanced divers only: the current can torpedo the unwary past Escarceo Point and straight out into the Verde Passage. The whole area around The Canyons teems with fish. There are shoals of everything from parroffish and angelfish to lionfish and jacks, as well as tuna and grouper. The most recent sightings of manta rays and a whale shark occurred here.

Verde Island, usually dived on a day trip by banca, is a favourite of the liveaboards that regularly visit Puerto Galera. East Point is a wall that drops to 60m — although the average dive only goes half as deep. The wall is a mass of large soft corals, gorgonians and the same vast variety of reef fish that can be found off Escarceo Point.

BLOWING IN THE WIND
Most visitors to Puerto Galera aren’t aware how many other activities can be enjoyed, and how good the conditions are. Although you rarely see boardsailors in action, conditions are ideal: steady 15-20 knot winds blow down the Verde Passage all day for most of the year, and the general sailing environment is magnificent. Back in the early 1980s — when scuba divers still had to bring all their own gear, including tanks — a boardsailing school was set up at Boquete, to take advantage of the sheltered conditions within the harbour. Experienced boardsailors came from far and wide to challenge the near-perfect conditions.

Few boardsailors are seen today, but the great sailing conditions attract local and international yachtsmen.There are regular regattas and the Puerto Galera Yacht Club — the club tender runs from the main pier — is worth a visit to catch up on local lore, events and tall tales.

And Puerto Galera isn’t just all watersports. Activities include trekking, mountainbiking — and even golf. Twenty minutes along the coast and a steep climb up the ridge from White Beach lies the Ponderosa Golf and Country Club, 600m above sea level. The nine-hole, mountain-top course is best de-scribed as “challenging” and definitely for the fit — no golf carts up here. Temperatures are several degrees cooler than at sea level, and there is a constant breeze. It’s worth the trip just to cool off and sip a beer while taking in the spectacular views over Puerto Galera and the Verde Island Passage. On a clear day you can see as far as Taal Volcano, Lubang and Fortune Islands, a good 80km away. Ponderosa is also a handy starting point for anyone wishing to explore the ridges and mountain valleys that rise steeply behind Puerto Galera. All manner of wildlife, waterfalls and isolated Mangyan villages can be found in the dense rainforest. The Mangyan, the indigenous minority tribes of Mindoro, still live quite traditionally in these mountains, subsisting through primitive slash-and-burn agriculture and trading handicrafts for re-sale to tourists. Trekking alone is not recommended as there are many false trails and pitfalls that can trap the inexperienced. Also, if you’re a visitor arriving as a local guide’s guest you’re always welcome, but strangers may not be.

If you’re looking for a serious mountain/jungle trek, head southwest down the coast road to the port town of Calapan. which is right at the foot of the towering bulk of Mount Halcon. The summit, at 2586m, is a worthwhile target. A major trail. known as the Lantuyang Route. runs to this peak, presenting a challenging climb with 60-80deg inclines at some points. You pass through moss-encrusted rainforests with stands of Mindoro and rare plant species be-reaching the timberline at 1000m. En route you may come across monkeys, boar, quail and care butterflies. Many waterfalls ,can be seen plunging down the slopes and, particularly in the 9” season, there are numerous swimming holes. It can be a wet climb even in the dry season, but at the summit — an area of low uses and tundra-like grasslands.

If you like to tour on wheels, simply hit the road to Calapan and consider the journey the reward. This shouldn’t be too difficult, as the road wriggles its way down the deeply-indented coast-Woe, winding in and out of bays and coves, rainforest-covered mountains on one side and the deep blue waters of the Verde Passage on the other. About 35 of the 50kms is paved and the biggest climb is a 400m ascent near Tamaraw Falls. You can do this trip on a motorbike or a mountain bike — but watch out for erratic jeepneys.

LYING LOW
A stay at Puerto Galera is not complete without exploring the surrounding resorts and the undeveloped, virtually untouched beaches. This can be done by jeepney, rented mountain bike or banca. Bancas allow you to explore the endless empty white sand beaches further west. Puerto Galera has no shortage of resorts, restaurants and bars. Sabang is by far the busiest beach and has a variety of floating bars, open bars, pool bars, air-conditioned bars and restaurants. One of the more interesting is Capt’n Greggs Restaurant and Bar. It’s decorated with Brian Homan’s unique collection of antiques and artifacts recovered from wrecks of galleons. Chinese junks and and other vessels that were the victims of typhoons. reefs and warfare.

The Point Bar. between Sabang and small La Laguna beaches, right above Asia Divers shop at El Galleon, offers the best views over surrounding coves and across the Verde Passage. It’s one of the most popular places for divers to gather and discuss the day’s adventures against the fiery backdrop of the setting sun — discussions that often continue well into the night. Night also brings on the bright lights of the discos at Sabang and White Beach. While the rest of Puerto Galera closes down early, tourists and locals dance here into the early hours of the morning. Bancas do steady business ferrying guests from resorts to restaurants and nightclubs.

PRACTICALITIES
Getting there
Getting to Puerto Galera becomes easier as the area’s popularity grows. A comfortable and convenient way is to take the Sunshine Run bus from the Sundowner Hotel in Ermita, Manila. It leaves punctually at 9am daily and connects at midday with the Si-Kat ferry, which arrives at the Puerto Galera pier at about 2pm. Returning, you leave Puerto Galera pier at 9am to catch the Sunshine Run bus at midday. Arrival time in Manila is 3pm. Tickets cost 165 pesos each way. In addition, a local ferry runs daily between Batangas and Puerto Galera, and a number of large bancas operate regular services, but you need to match bus schedules from Manila with departure times and these can vary.

A large vehicle ferry also plies the route twice and, sometimes, three times a day. This makes travel easy and fast if you have your own transport. Most resorts will arrange direct transportation from Manila’s international airport to the Batangas Pier, where you board a large, high-speed banca to cross to Puerto Galera. You can do this at any time, day or night, but it costs at least 1000pesos for the taxi and 1500 for the banca. During daylight bancas can also be rented on arrival at Batangas for around 1500 pesos, but you have to bargain hard and can easily be overcharged. If you’re so inclined, a seaplane can be chartered from Manila’s international airport at US$100 per head for three passengers.

ACCOMMODATION
Basic nips hut cottages can be found for as little as 50pesos a night. Better accommodation, with modern facilities, hot and cold running water and airconditioning, costs 1000-1500 pesos and up. Best value for money are Atlantis Resort, El Galleon, La Laguna Beachblub and Capt’n Greggs. Room prices start from around 500 pesos a night. On adjacent beaches at Small La Laguna, Big La Laguna and Sabang respectively, these spots offer combined resort and dive facilities with easy access to the surrounding areas.

DIVE FACILITIES
There are four five-star PADI Dive Centres, three nitrox facilities and two rebreather instructors. Asia Divers has four centres located around Puerto Galera and instruction, under PADI course director Alan Nash, to Instructor level. The other five-star centres are La Laguna Beach Club and Dive Centre, Atlantis Resort and Capt’n Greggs. All major resorts offer diving facilities. There are more than ten independent operators, all PADI-certified. Diving is possible all year around, but is best from January-October, despite the May-September rainy season.

BOAT CHARTERS
Charters can be arranged and, over a few well-placed beers at the Puerto Galera Yacht Club, you can often arrange to join a visiting or local yacht for a day cruise. Dave Socash, who mans the club bar, serves an appetising variety of dishes and information. Visitors are welcome. Small, traditional sailing bancas are available for hire on various beaches, and from time to time a Hobie Cat. Their location varies from season to season and owner to owner, but local banqueros will be able to inform you.

TREKKING
The Puerto Galera Mountain Trail is a minor hike of two to three days passing through a mountainous area of virgin rainforest and many waterfalls. Another major trail, the Lantuyang Route, leads to the summit of Mount Halcon. It is advisable to hire guides. Weather on Halcon can be unpredictable.

MOUNTAIN GOLF
Tony Taylor, a retired Philippine businessman, and his wife have built a nine- hole course around a small clubhouse, the Ponderosa Golf and Country Club. Clubs can be rented, limited accommodation.

SCENIC VISITS
Arrangements to visit local scenic spots can be made with your resort or by inquiring among the jeepney drivers in Puerto Galera township.