Travel Destinations » Nagarjunasagar

Lying to the north-east less than 200 km from Srisailam, the Nagarjunasagar Dam has awesome statistics to its name. A height of 605 ft and a length of 4,756 ft makes it the largest masonry dam in the world; the canal on its right bank is the longest irrigation canal in the world; its 175 sq km reservoir is the third largest artificial lake in the world. More interestingly, around 1955, history was literally recreated here.

First in 1926 and then in 1954, this was the site of large-scale excavation work. A flourishing Buddhist civilization (including a monastic university and township) were unearthed, dating back to the third century. The Brahmi inscription on one of the stupas—the Mahachaityastated that it contained the relics of Lord Buddha himself. It was here that the famous Buddhist preceptor Nagarjuna lived and taught.

But when it was decided to build a dam across the river Krishna nearby, it was found that the entire excavated area would be drowned by the reservoir. Moreover, as the construction work progressed, other relics were discovered, some of which conclusively proved that the area, had been inhabited right from the stone ages.

In an unprecedented gesture, the government allowed the archaeologists to shift the ruins of the monastery to higher ground. Painstakingly, brick by brick, the site was reconstructed at Anupu, on the east bank of the reservoir. The rest of the findings were kept in a Viharashaped museum atop an island in the middle of the lake.

This island museum is known as Nagarjunakonda. Twice daily—at 9 am and at 2 pm—except Fridays, boats operated by AP Tourism take visitors to the island museum. Each way, the journey takes about an hour. Except during the winter months, there are few visitors to the museum and the 2 pm boat might stand cancelled. Or as it happened with us, with a gusty wind blowing in late August, the trips were cancelled for an indefinite period. As exploring the island takes dune, it is better to reach the site by the first boat and return by the last one. Opened to the public in April 1966, the museum sits pretty in the middle of a landscaped garden. In the open-air section, the ruins have been laid out in their original formation. Here one can see the 13 ft tall statue of the Buddha (with a broken arm) that has acquired symbolic importance. Smaller artefacts have been stored within the museum.

Anupu is about 8 km from the boat landing. Ethipothala, 11 km away, is known for its waterfalls set in a verdant valley. The Chandravanka stream plunges from a height of 21.3 m into a lagoon. Accordingto legend, this was a favorite spot for meditating ascetics. APTourism’s tourist bungalow overlooks the plunging stream. Although fitted with overnight facilities, at the time of our visit, it was operating as a day center only.

Located about 196 km from Srisailam and 150 km from Hyderabad, Nagarjunasagar is the northernmost boundary of the NSTR. Unfortunately, the forest has long disappeared and denuded rockfaces litter the barren landscape till one reaches the vicinity of the dam. The township has grown along the barrage and goes by the ancient name of Vijayapuri—the former capital of the Ikshabaku dynasty, which ruled here thousands of years ago.

For administrative convenience, the place is referred to as Vijayapuri-North and VijayapuriSouth. The north side (also referred to as Hill Colony) consists of offices belonging to the hydel project, forest department, tourism, etc and their residential quarters and schools . The south side, inhabited by the local people, is the hub of the tourist zone. But except for the dam and the historical association, there is not much to see around the place which is frequented mostly by day-trippers.

Climate: Except for the summer months of May, June and July, Nagarjunasagar is pleasant. Monsoon showers are sharp but short.

Clothing: Light woollens are necessary in winter which is the best time to visit.

Getting There: From the nearest airport Hyderabad, 150 km away, one can take a local bus or hire a car. By road, Nagarjunasagar is 237 kmfrom Warangal and 192 km from Vijayawada. Macherla, 29 km away, is the nearest railhead and is linked to the main line through Guntur, 129 km from Macherla. The GunturMacherla passenger runs daily and takes about four hours each way. AP Tourism operates a Nagarjunasagar tour daily from Hyderabad. In season, a combined trip to Nagarjunasagar-Srisailam is also available.

Eating Out: Hotels and guest houses have their own dining halls but there is not much choice of dishes. Both the north and the south areas have plenty of small eateries but the food is local and spicy.

Sightseeing: There are no recognized conducted trips, so it is best to hire an autorickshaw or a jeep. The rates vary depending on the season and the crowd, but it is possible to trim them down to Rs 250/300 for a round trip covering Anupu, the dam site, Ethipothala and a drop to the ferry point.

Local Transport: Autorickshaws and jeeps are easily available. A regular bus service links the north and south sides.

Medical Facilities: There are local pharmacies. The small hospital is equipped to render first-aid in case of emergencies.

Accommodation: Guest houses belonging to the hydel project, PWD and tourism are the best places to stay in, but they are all located on the north side. There are several budget hotels on the south side.