Travel Destination » Travel to Langtang National Park, Nepal

LANGTANG HIMAL NATIONAL PARK - NEPAL

The hidden valley
If you want fresh perspectives as well as fresh air on your next trip to Nepal, check out Langtang Himal National Park

Nepal caters to those with high expectations. But you don’t have to head for the 8000m peaks of the Everest and Annapurna ranges to enjoy dike majesty of her mountains; and you don’t have to rub shoulders with backpacking hordes or spend a month or on long, circuitous trails. There are still a handful of lesser known treks that in the many equal, if not surpass their famous rivals. Some of the best of these less trodden paths are in the Lanztang Himal, Nepal’s oldest Himalayan national park. Langtang, just 75km north of Kathmandu, has no 8000m summits but nevertheless offers spectacular g1aciers, rugged trails and remote villages. The area is essentially a long, narrow valley running parallel to the Tibetan border, and hemmed in by high, snow-zapped peaks. Relatively easy access cans that an entire trek — including to and from the park—can be completed in a week. And in terms of challenges the place is certainly no pushover. treks — such as the difficult 16-Mile return loop over 5122m Ganja La pass can tax the most intrepid souls.

LOWER VALLEY
This ismore or less the gateway to the valley. The roadhead for the main trekking trail is at hulo Bharku, an even smaller hamlet perched precariously above terraced fields about an hour’s walk out of Dunche. From here you have fine views up the valley towards the Tibetan border — about 20km away — a taste of things to come.

The trail starts at an altitude of 1900m and rises gently as it meanders through the cool deciduous forests of oak and maple that cover the lower sections of the valley. At Syabru the trail swings right into a narrower side-valley — which is Langtang proper — and begins to climb through massive stands of spruce, fir and blue pine. Towering walls close in and the path skirts precipitous drops which fall into a silt-laden river below. It’s a classic transition from temperate lowland forest to high-altitude Himalayan valley.

GOING HIGHER
At the end of the second day, most trekkers stay in a village that’s generally referred to by the same name as the main lodge here: the Lama Hotel. Like all of Langtang’s guesthouses, Lama Hotel’s basic-but-friendly accommodation is subject to price controls set by the local authorities. Depending on the season, prices range from free (most hotels make their money from meals anyway) to a maximum of 50 rupees (US$1) per night. Food prices are similarly controlled.

At this point you start to become aware of the firm control the government exercises over the park — with results that are often good, but sometimes questionable. On one hand, there are strict controls on tree-felling, and the park has remained mercifully free from the satellite dishes that dominate some over-trekked parts of Nepal. But, inevitably, the government has had to offer alternative energy schemes. These include a planned kerosene dump at Syabru Besi and a controversial proposal to install hydro-electric turbines along the Langtang Khola (river). Other unfortunate side-effects of micro-management include heavy taxes on local hotel-keepers and a less-than-sophisticated attempt to appease western palates with the introduction of banana-pancake-style menus. (That said, there are still plenty of local dishes on the menus, and diehards can rest assured that Langtang’s kitchens still produce a mean dahl baht.)

After Lama Hotel, the steady climb continues. Gradually the air becomes thinner and the climate colder. One day further on the forest peters out and you start getting the first tantalizing glimpses of snow-capped peaks. After Langtang village — a community of typical flat-roofed Tibetan houses — the valley finally flattens and broadens into open pasture. This is perfect for raising yaks, and you’ll see these imposing beasts everywhere. The village is also home to the king of Langtang, who operates a local store well-stocked with supplies helicoptered from Kathmandu.

THE UPPER VALLEY
Once you’re above the treeline the terrain is quite different, and glacial moraines spill out from neighbouring valleys. As the trail meanders on towards the nearby village of Kyanjin Gompa, you’re treated to spectacular views of snow-capped mountains. The glacier that forms the head of the valley is still 13km further on, but Kyanjin Gompa has the last hotels in the valley so unless you have your own tent —which is a highly recommended option — this is where you have to base yourself for further exploration. A 3.5hr walk to the east of Kyanjin Gompa from the village is 5000m Tsergo Ri. The reward for climbing to the prayer flags on its summit is a magnificent view of the 7246m Langtang Lirung, the mountain which dominates the valley. There are numerous alternative side-trips. The surrounding area, especially to the north, isuninhabited valleys — ideal for high-altitude, backcountry trekking. Several of the more moderate local peaks are quite climbable and provide breathtaking views of mountains in Tibet, including the 8027m Xixa Pangma. If you have the inclination and the right equipment, the upper Langtang Valley can also be used as a base for glacier exploration.

RETURN TRIPS
Returning to Dunche can be completed in as little as three days. You can retrace your steps or — if you want a more interesting journey — take trails on the opposite side of the Langtang River. For more experienced and adventurous trekkers, another alternative is to cross the high Ganja La pass over the southern side of the valley and trek on into the Helambu region. The Ganja La has a well-deserved reputation as one of the most treacherous trekking passes in Nepal, and is closed for much of the year due to snow.

Anyone attempting this route must have the right gear and is advised to hire a local guide. One of the peaks adjacent to the pass — the 5846m Ganja La Chuli is an officially designated ‘trekking peak’, but can only be attempted if you organize a permit and guide in Kathmandu. From Helambu, the 4610m Lauribina La provides access to the holy Gosainkund Lakes, and ultimately to Dunche. It’s possible to trek from Helambu all the way to Kathmandu but this trek demands stamina and good

PRACTICALITIES
When to go The best, but busiest, time for Langtang — as with any of the major parks in Nepal — is March/April and October/November. In February, mountain air is usually cold and clear, most snow has already fallen and high-altitude trails are free of trekking

Masses. Passes can be tricky, but begin re-open around mid-February. In summer airborne dust reduces visibility in upper valley and monsoon rains bring out leeches in the lowland forests.

Getting There
Busses leave from Kathmandu in the early morrning. They are not comfortable. Alternatively, private mini-buses can be arranged for groups.

COSTS AND PARK FEES
Saving trekking permits is the cheapest way to extend your visa — US$5 per week for Ungtang and the other major parks, in addition to the 650 rupee park entry fee. Permits me checked religiously en route to. and in, the parks. In add in, on. park authorities assume anyone with a video camera is shooting a commercial film, so a US$100 fee is levied. Bags are searched on entering and exiting the park.
Porters can be hired locally at hotels in Dhunche. The going rate seems to be between US$3-5 per day.

Gear
One of the great advantages of trekking in established areas in Nepal is that you can travel very light. Langtang’s lodges provide adequate food and shelter —though they can still be cold in winter —and this negates the need to lug heavy camping gear, cooking gear, or even a sleeping bag around with you on a trek. Depending on the season and the altitude you may need a down or fleece jacket.

The area is usually trekked via valley floor trails, but it’s possible to go exploring at altitude. However, if this is what you intend to do make sure you bring proper equipment including good boots and waterproofs. In particular, the area’s passes — especially the Ganja La — are notoriously difficult. Also, don’t count on buying equipment. Although Kathmandu used to be an excellent place to buy cheap expedition cast-offs, nowadays it’s difficult to get good second-hand gear here. Most of it appears to have disappeared. Climbing and trekking hardware can be bought new, and some genuine equipment is still available for rent, but even here you need to take care: most of the brand-name clothing and backpacks for sale in Thamel’s many outfitters are fakes. They’re certainly cheap, but these rip-offs cannot be relied on for extended or high altitude trekking.