Travel » Gir Gujarat

Historically, the lion enjoyed a wide distribution in Asia, from Asia Minor and Arabia through Persia and India. Even a few hundred years ago, lions roamed freely throughout the wildernesses of northern and central India, from Sind to Bengal and down to the Narmada river. By 1913, excessive loss of habitat caused the pressure of human population and ruthless trophy hunting had reduced their numbers to just 21 Thereafter, thanks to stringent protective measures, the lion population steadily increased. Today, we have a figure of 305 animals (1995 census) precariously confined to a forest tract of around 1,400 sq km in peninsular Saurashtra.

Lion sighting in Gir is a matter of luck and chance. You might get to see them on your first outing, or you might spend a whole week without encountering them even once. On each of my two visits to Gir, I saw lions only after five days of driving around in the forests, twice every day, morning and evening. But I got to know the area quite well, see a number of its less glamorous inhabitants, and generally have a marvellous time. And when, finally, I did see the lion, the occasion was all the more memorable for having been delayed so long.

For tourists who are short on time and patience but must see the lion before they leave, there is an Interpretation Zone at Devalia, around 12 km from Sasan Gir. This fencedarea of around 400 ha (about 1000 acres), contains most habitat types and wildlife of Gir. Visitors are taken around in a van and animal sighting, including that of lions, is assured. At first I was contemptuous of this facility and felt that the visitors were literally being taken for a ride. But Mahesh Singh, the deputy conservator in charge of the sanctuary at that time, soon set me right. "The Interpretation Zone," he said, "provides an enjoyable educational experience to casual tourists, who then leave the sanctuary satisfied. And the tourist pressure on the actual park area is considerably reduced."

The day starts early in the Gir wildlife sanctuary. One should reach the reception center situated within the Forest Rest House (Sinn Sadan) complex by 6 am. Two or three Gypsy jeeps wait there for hire, for excursions into the forest. A Gypsy belonging to the Forest Department can be hired too, but it is seldom available. The usual formalities like filling in forms, paying for tickets, etc have to be completed. And with luck, by about 6.30 am, you set out as the sun is rising, the mist just lifting, a cold wind is blowing and the forest is just waking up to share with you her many delights.

It is also the ideal time for photography: the light gets progressively better, whereas in the evening it gets worse. It is usual to see peafowl, painted sand-grouse, hawks and eagles and a variety of water birds--Gir has surprisingly rich bird life. We also regularly encountered herds of chital, troupes of langur monkeys, the occasional nilgai, sambar deer and, once, the elusive jungle cat. And always we felt the sharp tang of anticipation, of coming upon the king himself at any moment.

These forests were truly wild. The vegetation was mixed deciduous, but there were also gently undulating hilly tracts, grasslands, scrub jungle and riverine forests of great beauty. In short, there was no monotony and our long drives invariably ended before we had had enough. The long wait was not in vain either, for early one morning, we unexpectedly came across a pride of lions on the prowl.
But the greatest threat to the lions of Gir comes from habitat destruction, and the resultant isolation and inbreeding. Though Gir has the highest concentration of lions, there are several smaller "meta populations" in adjoining areas. It is important that these populations keep interacting with one another, otherwise inbreeding will hasten their extinction.

Gir attracts a good number of foreign tourists too. In a single day I talked to two Americans, one Mexican, an English couple, a German and a Jew traveling together; a couple from Australia; and a whole busload of people from Israel: We had a wonderful time in Gir, though my hope of seeing an adult male lion remained unfulfilled. Mahendra tried to console me in his own way. "The Prince of Wales, when he came here, did not see adult male lions either," he said.

The words cheered me up all right, though not in the way he had intended. They reminded me that the Asiatic lions had survived for so long, that they were resilient, and that we would not allow them to disappear from the face of the earth. In the distance, I could hear them roaring again, as in a dream. The deep, powerful reverberations, echoing through the forests of the night, were marvellously reassuring.

How and Where
Sasan Gir can be accessed by air, rail and road. The nearest airport is at Keshod (55 km). There are airports also at Diu (110 km) and at Rajkot (150 km). Gujarat Airways flies on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from Mumbai to Keshod. Indian Airlines and Jet Airways fly daily to Rajkot from Mumbai. State Transport buses ply between Rajkot and Sasan.

The nearest railway station is at Sasan Gir, within walking distance of Sinh Sadan. From Ahmedabad, the Gimar Express (9946) departs at 9pm and reaches Junagadh at around 6 am. The connecting passenger train from Junagadh to Sasan Gir at 6:15 am takes two and a half hours for the journey. The Somnath Mail (9924) leaves Ahmedabad at 11 pm andreaches Junagadh at around 9 am.

Frequent buses ply between Junagadh and Sasan Gir. Taxi hire would come to around Rs 500. Sasan Gir can be accessed by road from Ahmedabad via Junagadh, 390 km; Jamnagar via Junagadh, 200 km Keshod via Malia, 55 km; Junagadh via Mendarda, 60 km; and Veraval via Talala, 42 km.

Acommodation facilities are limited at Sasan. At the top end is the luxurious and well-appointed Taj-run Gir Lodge. The rooms have telephones, TV, refrigerators etc. Facilities include doctor-on-call, safe-deposit lockers, indoor games and a fine multi-cuisine restaurant.

The sanctuary is open for tourists from October 16 to June 15. Winter is very pleasant. Light woolens are needed, particularly during the morning rides. Summer can be very hot, dry and dusty, with temperatures rising to 43°C. Entry fees, camera fees etc are quite nominal. A sum of Rs 400 is charged for each safari ride, and the guide who comes along has to be paid Rs 40. Aside from that, good sightings usually earn him a generous tip.

Many people who come to Gir also visit Somnath Temple (45 km), the beach town of Diu (105 km), Gondal (123 km) famous for its riverside palace and collection of vintage cars, Tulsishyam (96 km) with its temple and hot springs. Taxis can be hired for these trips, but fix the rates in advance. Expect to bargain, but, on the whole it is a seller's market.