Vishnupad Temple-Surya Temple-Brahmajuni Hill-Akshyabat
This walk is best tackled in the morning when it is not so hot, dusty and crowded. Starting at the rail station, turn right for the centre of the old town. Ten minutes’ walk brings you to the Vishnupad Temple (just follow the pilgrims), the main focus of the Hindu pilgrimage in Gaya. The original modest shrine, erected in ancient times over a 40-cm (16-in) long ‘footprint’ of Vishnu (imprinted in solid rock, ringed by a silver-plated basin) was completely renovated in 1787 by the revolutionary
Rani Ahalya Bai of Indore, producing the present magnificent structure with its 30-m high octagonal tower and eight rows of beautifully sculpted pillars supporting the pavilion hall or mandapa. The temple is off-limits to non-Hindus, but the exterior makes fine viewing. So do the neighbouring ghats.A short walk north brings you to the Surya Temple, dedicated to the Sun God. Situated on the banks of the river Sone, this is where the community of sun-worship- . pers gathers for prayers, mainly at sunrise and sunset. Continue 1 km ( 3/4 mile) south-west to the foot of the Brahmajuni Hill. This is ascended via a steep series of 1000 stairs (40 mins/1 hour if fit; not at all if unfit) and offers fine views from the summit. Back at the foot of the steps, visit the ‘immortal’ banyan tree which pilgrims attend to complete the cycle of rituals begun for their ancestors back in Varanasi. This is the Akshyabat where the Buddha practised penance for 6 years before retiring to Bodhgaya, to commence the final meditation leading to his enlightenment. There is a small Gaya Museum (open 10 am-5 pm, closed Monday) with a collection of bronzes, terracottas and sculpture.
This walk is best tackled in the morning when it is not so hot, dusty and crowded. Starting at the rail station, turn right for the centre of the old town. Ten minutes’ walk brings you to the Vishnupad Temple (just follow the pilgrims), the main focus of the Hindu pilgrimage in Gaya. The original modest shrine, erected in ancient times over a 40-cm (16-in) long ‘footprint’ of Vishnu (imprinted in solid rock, ringed by a silver-plated basin) was completely renovated in 1787 by the revolutionary
Rani Ahalya Bai of Indore, producing the present magnificent structure with its 30-m high octagonal tower and eight rows of beautifully sculpted pillars supporting the pavilion hall or mandapa. The temple is off-limits to non-Hindus, but the exterior makes fine viewing. So do the neighbouring ghats.A short walk north brings you to the Surya Temple, dedicated to the Sun God. Situated on the banks of the river Sone, this is where the community of sun-worship- . pers gathers for prayers, mainly at sunrise and sunset. Continue 1 km ( 3/4 mile) south-west to the foot of the Brahmajuni Hill. This is ascended via a steep series of 1000 stairs (40 mins/1 hour if fit; not at all if unfit) and offers fine views from the summit. Back at the foot of the steps, visit the ‘immortal’ banyan tree which pilgrims attend to complete the cycle of rituals begun for their ancestors back in Varanasi. This is the Akshyabat where the Buddha practised penance for 6 years before retiring to Bodhgaya, to commence the final meditation leading to his enlightenment. There is a small Gaya Museum (open 10 am-5 pm, closed Monday) with a collection of bronzes, terracottas and sculpture.
The main excursions from Gaya are to Bodhgaya 13 km (8 miles), Nalanda 65 km (401/2 miles) and Rajgir 64 km (40 miles). But there’s an interesting day-outing possible to the Barabar Caves 20 km (121/2 miles) north, which are the ‘Marabar Caves’ of E.M. Forster’s Passage to India. The caves are very ancient, dating to at least 200 BC, and two of them bear original inscriptions of Ashoka the Great himself. But be warned: it’s a very hot, exposed location. Take some covering for your head, and lots of water. To get there, hire a rickshaw or taxi.
