City Sights Round-up (on foot, by taxi/rickshaw, full-day)
St John’s Church–Writers’ Building–Birla Planetarium–St Paul’s Cathedral-Kalighat Temple–Mother Teresa’s Mission–Birla Academy of Art
For day two, see a number of places that should be but aren’t included on the state conducted tours. Again, start early to miss the crowds. Take a pleasant promenade across elegant BBD Bag (opposite the West Bengal Tourist Office, north of Maidan). At the back of the square, walk for 10 minutes left down Council House St to find St John’s Church, modelled on London’s St Martin-in-the-Fields. Built in 1784, this old stone church served as a temporary cathedral (1814-47) until St Paul’s Cathedral was completed. Things worth seeing inside include the Last Supper a painting by Zoffany k and the charming wicker seats overlooked by marble memorials to imperial servants. The graveyard outside, kolkata’s first burial site, has the octagonal mausoleum of the city’s founder, Job Charnock, also the tomb of Admiral Charles Watson who helped Clive retake kolkata from the Murshidabad Nawab.
Twenty minutes’ walk back up to, and just beyond, the rear of BBD Bag you’ll find the remarkable Writers Building. Foreigners generally go there just to get a permit for Sundarbans Tiger Reserve (300 or so tigers here, who eat an average of 40 people a year), but others simply go for entertainment. Marvel here at the rows and rows of tables, piled with files, with a small space cleared by the occupant of each table for his newspaper and his cup of tea. One visitor remarked: It was classic India. I went for a Sundarbans permit and was told to apply to the ‘rosy-coloured boy’ upstairs. This turned out to be a middle-aged man wearing a rose-coloured shirt. He was sitting at his table, snowed under by papers, staring up at the ceiling in a mystic trance. So was everybody else. The building was full of people doing absolutely I nothing, or just reading newspapers.
From here, take a rickshaw/taxi down to the Birla Planetarium, just below Victoria Memorial. It’s the biggest planetarium in India, and the ideal place for an air-conditioned siesta out of the midday heat. There are at least two English-speaking programmes daily, at varying times between 11.30 am and 8.30 pm (except Monday). If you’re waiting for a show, drop in on St Paul’s Cathedral (open 9 am-12 noon, 3-6 pm), 2 minutes’ walk down the main road. Built between 1839 and 1847, this distinguished Gothic structure is the oldest Church of England cathedral of the British Empire. It is notable for its striking murals and frescoes, stained-glass windows, and coloured altar reredos.
Another rickshaw /taxi ride south brings you to the notorious Kalighat Temple (open 5 am-8 pm). Dedicated to the ‘black goddess’ Kali or Kalika (another possible origin of kolkata’s name), and considered the chief Kali temple in India, the present structure is an 1809 version of an early 17th-century original. The gruesome legend attached to it is that Vishnu chopped up the body of Shiva’s wife Devi, and one of her severed toes fell here. Today, it’s goats and sheep who get the chop daily, the sacrifices taking place in the courtyard used for local cricket. The atmosphere is very unwholesome (even Gandhi couldn’t take it) and it is not a place for the squeamish. People generally come to Kalighat not for the temple, but to visit Mother Teresa’s Mission, 54a Lower Circular Rd, tel 24711 (open only early morning, and from 4 to 6 pm for visitors). The caring, unstinting help extended by this iron-willed yet gentle champion of the sick, poor and dying has provoked worldwide admiration. A short visit to see the results of her work is always rewarding.
Close by, at 108-9 Southern Avenue (another short taxi journey, or 15-minute walk), is the Birla Academy of Art and Culture. Open only from 4 to 7 pm (closed Monday), it’s something to reserve for the end of the day. The ground floor has a good historical sculpture section, while upstairs there’s contemporary art. The Indian Society of Oriental Art and other cultural bodies run regular exhibitions here, all the paintings being well lit, catalogued and presented.
RECREATION
Set aside an evening or two to enjoy kolkata’s rich heritage of music, dance and theatre. The principal culture halls are 
Rabindra Sadan and Academy of Fine Arts, both in Cathedral Rd. The Nandan Theatre, behind Rabindra Sadan, shows prizewinning English/Indian films. For programme details, pick up a copy of kolkata This Fortnight from the Government of India tourist office, or buy a Statesman newspaper. The Telegraph newspaper on Sundays has a good local listing. All culture shows start at 6.30 pm. The Dances of India programme at the Oberoi’s Mughal Room restaurant is convenient, if nothing special. Tickets are Rs35. There’s a wide selection of cinemas. In the Sudder St area, English films play regularly at the Lighthouse, the Globe and the New Empire. Current programmes are listed in the Telegraph newspaper.
kolkata’s close heat tends to discourage vigorous sport. But if you’re pining for exercise and sightseeing hasn’t worn you out, try joining one of the city’s numerous clubs. The best one is the Tollygunge Club, 120 Deshapran Sasmal Rd (tel 463141), with golf, tennis, squash, swimming, riding and billiards. Set in over 100 acres of fine scenery, this is the premier country club of India. Alternatively, there’s kolkata Cricket Club, 19/1 Gurusaday Rd (tel 478721) for tennis as well as cricket; Royal kolkata Turf Club, 11 Russell St (tel 241103), which holds regular race meets; and the Royal kolkata Golf Club, 33 Tollygunge (tel 461288), best for 18 holes before lunch. This is the oldest Golf Club in the world outside Great Britain—founded in 1829. These all have excellent facilities, though their exclusive nature means you’ll have to ring or write for temporary membership. To gain access to kolkata’s Saturday Club, 7 Wood St (tel 445411)—geared to the young ‘jet-set’ elite—you’ll need an introduction. It helps to be young, pretty and /or rich. If you fit the bill, just hang around in the better hotel bars or restaurants (Fairlawns is a good bet) and use your charisma.
