Sunrise Point–Kumari Amman Temple–Gandhi Mandap–Fishing Village-Vivekananda Memorial
Try to be up around 5 am for the sunrise. This is best seen either from Sunrise Point down on the beach, or from your hotel roof. Every hotel near the shoreline has a roof, and each one will be choc-a-bloc with jostling tourists. The sunrise itself takes place against an atmospheric background of Muslim muezzin-calls, Catholic prayers and picturesque fishing boats putting out to sea. Afterwards, you can go straight back to bed.Later, take a walk down to the beach. Here you’ll find Kumari Amman Temple,
dedicated to the virgin goddess who is now the nation’s protective mother-figure. The deity sits in a small dark pavilion, flanked by four attendants. She used to look out to sea, but her glittering nose-diamond lured so many sailors to their deaths (including the British vessel which purloined the original jewelled nose-ring) that the temple door was closed in her face. The temple is open from 4.30-11.30 am and 5.30-8.30 pm but the sanctum is closed to non-Hindus.Just west of the temple is Gandhi Mandap, the rather bizarre monument erected to commemorate the spot where the Mahatma’s ashes were kept before being immersed in the sea. It’s worth a visit (have 10 paisa handy, or you’ll never get in), if only for the coastline views from the top-storey balconies.
A total contrast to the touristy new town is the quaint little Fishing Village just down the beach. Here you’ll find a warm and friendly community of fisherfolk living in the same way they have for centuries. Give them a hand with a fishing line, or help push out a dugout to sea, and you’ll be their friend. For around Rs20, they run parties of 3/4 people out to sea for ‘fishing trips’. You don’t get to do a lot of fishing, but you do get stunning views of mainland India and Sri Lanka from a mile or so out. Sitting for 2 hours in a primitive five-plank catamaran you also get very damp so take a spare pair of trousers.
Beyond the village are lovely palm-fringed beaches: great for sunbathing, fatal for 
swimming. The coastal currents are generally dangerous. To swim in safety, use either the sheltered bathing ghat back in town, or the new pool on the shore built for visitors. Above the village is the clean, white Catholic Church, established by Francis Xavier in the 16th century. It’s massive. So is the Disney-ish image of the Virgin Mary inside. She is patron-saint of the fishing community, afforded just the same reverence as is given the Kumari deity by the Hindu pilgrims across the bay. Since the congregation prefer to squat in the church, there are no pews.
Returning to the bathing ghat, take a boat (Rs6 return, regular departures from 7-11 am, 2-5 pm daily, except Tuesday) out to Vivekananda Memorial, which lies on the two rocky islands 200 m offshore. Dedicated to the philosopher-saint Swami Vivekananda, who came here in 1892, meditated on the rock, then set out to become li one of India’s leading religious crusaders. It is a relatively recent structure (1970) which attempts to blend all the architectural styles of India. There is over-strict security here, in part to highlight the sanctity of the site. Smoking and eating are prohibited and shoes must be removed. The views of the mainland from it are excellent. Pilgrims visit the rock to view the Kumari goddess’s footsteps.
Try to be back at the ghat around 6 pm for sunset. This is often low tide, and best views can be obtained by wading over to the small observation rock opposite. Take care coming back though, as the rising tide has a nasty habit of leaving unwary tourists stranded. At the April full moon the setting sun and rising moon appear side by side on the same horizon.
RECREATION
For entertainment, there is good sea-fishing (but nowhere to hire tackle); also one cinema. At sunset, pop over to Suchindram Temple, a 10-minute auto-rickshaw ride away for the evening arti.
SHOPPING
Apart from seashells, plywood toy racing-cars and ‘precious sand of three seas’, there’s nothing local that is worth buying.
