Getting Around

Goa is a surprisingly big place. It may look like just a dot on the map, but actually comprises 3702 sq km (1428 sq miles) of lush, attractive landscape dotted with hundreds of churches and chapels, fringed with an endless expanse of paddy fields and palm groves, all of it saturated with history. The unique mix of Portuguese and Indian cultures is apparent everywhere—stately Catholic cathedrals and charming terraced bungalows existing alongside traditional Hindu temples and Indian-style dwellings. While most of Goa’s activities (swimming, water-sports, parties) take place on the beaches, most of her sights are inland—and they are well worth appreciating at leisure before getting out the sun-oil.

Goa has four main towns: Panjim in the centre (with its ‘local’ beaches of Miramar and Dona Paula); Mapusa, above the Mandovi River, which services the northern beaches of Vagator/Chapora, Anjuna/Baga, Calangute and Aguada; Margao, below the River Zuari, which connects to the southern beaches of Majorda, Colva/Benaulim, Betelbatim and Betul; and Vasco da Gama, near the Dabolim airport, the gateway to the exclusive luxury beach of Bogmalo. Some useful distances are: Panjim to Vasco (30 km: 18 3/4 miles), Panjim to Calangute (16 km: 10 miles), Panjim to Vagator (33 km: 20 1/2 miles), Panjim to Tiracol (42 km: 26 1/4 miles), Margao to Dabolim (29 km: 18 miles), Vasco to Dabolim (3 km: 2 miles) and Vasco to Margao (30 km: 18 3/4 miles).

For short hops between these towns, there are either local buses (Rsl-5 to any destination, from Panjim’s Kodamba bus terminal, near Patto Bridge) or shared taxis, which can work out just as cheap. Motorbike ‘taxis’ pick up from the bus-stand and from the post office, offering cheap rides up to Altino Hill etc. Panjim, a convenient base for exploring Goa, is just 20 minutes (12 km: 7 1/2 miles) from Mapusa, and 1 hour (33 km: 20 1/2 miles via Courtillim) from Margao, for the northern and southern beaches respectively. To tour the beaches themselves, there are motorbikes for hire at Calangute and Anjuna, though these are expensive, and rather dangerous.