National Parks Africa » Tsavo National Park

Tsavo is a vast and region of roughly 21,000 square kilometres (8,400 square miles) comprising a series of habitats, ranging from open plains to savannah bushlands, semi-desert scrub, acacia woodlands, riverine forests, palm thickets, marshlands and even mountain forests on the Chyulu and Ngulia Hills. It is the largest park in Kenya. The park is divided by the Nairobi-Mombasa road and railway (the “Lunatic Express”) into two sections: the north-east of the park is called Tsavo East, with headquarters near Voi; the part south-west of the road is called Tsavo West, with headquarters at Kamboyo near Mtito Andei.

Depleted herds:
Tsavo was once world-renowned for its large elephant population. Only a few years ago, it was unthinkable to drive from Nairobi to Mombasa without seeing several herds.

Tsavo elephants have always been characteristically red, taking on the colour of the soil from dusting and mud bathing. However, the elephant herds which once roamed freely through Tsavo have now been devastated by rampant poaching for ivory. In 1987 conservationists counted less than 6,000 elephants, compared with 35,000 in a similar aerial survey in 1973. The animals that remain are wary of people and ready to run at the sight of a car. The same sad fate has befallen the once large, now non-existent rhino population.

Both Tsavo parks have been the study sites for a number of significant wildlife research projects. They were also the arena for fierce controvery over the “elephant problem”. One school held that there were too many elephants that were destroying the wooded and bushed habitats in times of drought, and that they should be scientifically culled. Such culling would provide valuable data on the population dynamics of the beasts, whose numbers would, of course, be altered by the culling itself.

Another school argued that, since most known animal populations have the ability to self-regulate their numbers through habitat-induced alterations in birth and death rates, there was no reason to believe that elephants do not have the same ability. As it transpired, when the rains returned, so did the grass and trees, but the elephants all but disappeared. A few died of starvation but most were killed by poachers. The results of the research were inconclusive, but favoured the school of laissez-faire.

Tsavo West:
Much of Tsavo West is of recent volcanic origin and is therefore very hilly. Entering from the Tsavo Gate, one comes across the palm-fringed Tsavo River from where the country rises through dense shrub to the steep, rocky Ngulia Hill which dominates the area. Volcanic cones, rock outcrops and lava flows can be seen, the most famous being Sheitani, a black scar of lava looking as if it has only just cooled, near Kilaguni Lodge.

The famous Mzima Springs are found in this volcanic zone. The springsgush out 50 million gallons of water a day of which seven million gallons are piped down to provide Mombasa with water. The rest of the water flows into the Tsavo and Galana rivers. The water originates in the Chyulu Hills as rain which percolates rapidly through the porous volcanic soils.

Hippos followed by shoals of barbels and crocodiles can be watched from an underwater observation chamber. The best time for viewing is early in the morning; during the day hippos move to the shade of the papyrus stand and remain out of sight.

East of the springs (downstream) is a stand of wild date and raphia palms, the latter with fronds of up to nine metres (30 feet). North of the Mzima Springs are numerous extinct volcanoes, rising cone-shaped from the plains. Majestic Mount Kilimanjaro dominates the western horizon.

South of Mzima Springs is a beautiful picnic site at Poacher’s Lookout on the top of a hill. The view across the plains to Kilimanjaro is worth the trip.

Tsavo West stretches further south to the Serengeti Plains which, despite their name, have nothing to do with the Serengeti National Park, although the landscape is similar. This part of the park is crossed by the road and railway from Voi to Taveta and lies at the foothill of Kilimanjaro.

Birds and baobabs:
Tsavo West has spectacular baobab trees, which used to be far more numerous. In the mid- 1970s, there was an enormous and as yet unexplained attack by elephants on baobabs. Some claim it was because of the drought, others claim that there were “too many” elephants. Whatever the reason, the remaining baobabs are quite safe today.

The variety and sheer numbers of birds in Tsavo are incredible. Lake Jipe, at the southernmost tip of the park, is surrounded by tall reeds and is one of the most important wetlands in Kenya, providing a sanctuary for a number of water and marsh birds, including migrants from Europe. Some of the birds commonly seen at the lake are knob-billed geese, pied kingfishers, white-backed night herons, black herons, palm-nut vultures and the African skimmer. Lake Jipe can be reached by following the road to Taveta and then turning south after leaving the park through the old Mbuyuni Gate or following a murram road which begins near park headquarters across the Serengeti.

If you take an early morning game drive accompanied by a park ranger you might catch a glimpse of another endangered species. The few rhino left in Tsavo are protected in a fenced sanctuary at the foot of Ngulia Hill. Other wildlife in the park includes lion, cheetah, leopard, buffalo, spotted hyaena, warthog, Maasai giraffe, kongoni, duiker, waterbuck, klipspringer, impala, Grant’s gazelle, oryx, eland and zebra. The lions of Tsavo are legendary but after the rains, when the grass grows very long, they are difficult to spot.

Staying:
Accommodation is available at a series of lodges within the park. The floodlit waterhole at luxurious Kilaguni Lodge attracts an incredible variety of animals, especially in the dry season. All the rooms have splendid views and the food is first class. Ngulia Lodge, sited on the edge of a great escarpment, is frequently visited by leopards, some of which have been carefully studied by scientists who put radio collars on them to track their movements. Only five metres (16 feet) from the verandah there is a waterhole and salt lick where elephants converge to within touching distance and dig at the salt-bearing earth with their tusks.

Taita Hill and Salt Lick lodges, situated in a private reserve on the outskirts of Tsavo West on the Voi-Taiveta Road, offer excellent wildlife viewing with a luxury resort atmosphere. Ngulia Safari Camp, not far from Ngulia Lodge, has six bandas on the side of a hill overlooking a small dam visited by elephants and an incredible view over the valley where elephants gather. There is another self-catering camp at Kitani, not far from Mzima Springs. At minimal cost these self-help camps provide lamps, gas, bedrolls and mosquito nets, although you may prefer to bring your own.

Tsavo East:
The main physical feature in Tsavo East is the Yatta Plateau which runs almost parallel to, and is easily seen from, the Mombasa road. The plateau, which is between five and 10 kilometres (three to six miles) wide and about 305 metres (1,000 feet) high has its origins as a lava flow deriving from 01 Doinyo Sabuk east of Nairobi. Natural erosion over the millenia has exposed the flow to form the striking plateau seen today.

Around Voi, close to the road boundary, extends flat, dry, semi-desert thorn-bush country stretching as far as the eye can see. From Voi, running east, is the Voi River, which is partly swamp and does not flow all year round. It meanders slowly to Aruba where a large man-made dam, the remains of a defunct fish-farming scheme, makes an oasis for both animals and birds. Along the banks of the river is the dependent riverine woodland and numerous wildlife paths leading down to water holes.

The road between Aruba dam and Buchuma Gate on the Mombasa road is heavily populated with weavers, starlings and lilac-breasted rollers with iridescent wings.

One of the most spectacular sights in the park is the Lugard Falls on the Galana River, 40 kilometres (25 miles) north of Voi. Here the river, which in its early reaches borders Nairobi National Park, rushes through water-worn coloured rock and at the narrowest point it is said one can step across the river. Perhaps the crocodiles downstream survive on those who try. A good spot to see them is Crocodile Point further along the river. Lesser kudu hide in the dry bushland along the river banks.

Mudanda Rock, a 1.5-kilometrelong rock between Voi and Manyani Gate is a water catchment area which supplies a natural dam at its base. It is a vital watering point during the dry season and therefore one of the best wildlife viewing areas in the park. Large numbers of elephants used to congregate there. Visitors can leave their carsat the rock and climb up to overlook the dam.

Feasting beasts:
Tsavo lions were made famous by Colonel Patterson in his book, The Maneaters Of Tsavo, which records the havoc caused by marauding maneating lions to the imported Indian labour brought in to build the Mombasa-Nairobi railway during the early part of the century.

Grant’s gazelles, zebra, impala, kongoni, giraffe and lion have replaced elephants as the most common animals in Tsavo East. Large herds of buffalo can also be found. Buffalo have enjoyed a well deserved reputation in the past as being extremely dangerous when wounded or hunted. But since the banning of hunting, buffalo no longer associate danger with man or vehicles so they are generally quite docile.

Some of the more rare and unusual animals include oryx, lesser kudu and klipspringers; the latter can be seen standing motionless on rocky outcrops. Rock hyraxes, the improbable first cousins of elephants, can be seen sunning on rocks and chasing one another in and out of rocky crevices.

Conspicuous white-headed buffalo weavers (the most striking characteristic of which is arguably the red rump and not the white head) and red and yellow bishop birds are found everywhere. Some of the more unusual local birds include pale chanting goshawks, carmine bee-eaters, red and yellow barbets, palm-nut vultures, African skimmers, yellow throated longclaws and rosy-patched shrikes. The roads north of the Galana River and east of the Yatta Plateau are closed to the public, except when special permits are granted by the park warden. The country is wild and woolly, and spotted with outcrops such as Jimetunda and seasonal rivers such as Lag Tiva.

Various accommodation is available. Voi Safari Lodge clings to the side of a hill overlooking the vast expanse of Tsavo and is literally built into the rock—many of the floors are natural rock. There are two water holes andeven during the hottest times of day various wildlife, such as impala and warthog, come to drink.

Other accommodation can be found at the self-service Aruba Lodge near the Aruba dam and Crocodile Tented Camp on the road to Malindi, just outside the park beyond the Sala Gate. Every night, there is a ritual in which huge crocodiles are “called” out of the Galana River with chants and drums, up to the verandah to be fed on offal.

A dirt road from Mtito Andei runs to the west bank of the Athi River opposite Tsavo Safari Camp which is reached by boat. Don’t miss the incredible view at sunset from Yatta Plateau. Plans are underway to re-open Sheldrick Blind, an overnight hideaway on the eastern wall of the plateau from where leopard and other nocturnal animals can be watched. It is named after David Sheldrick, the most famous of Tsavo park wardens.

Public camp sites with minimal facilities are available thoughout both Tsavo East and West.