National Parks Africa » Samburu and Buffalo Springs Reserve

Samburu and Buffalo Springs reserves lie in what used to be called the Northern Frontier District, a vast area of semi desert and desert that stretches north from Mount Kenya to Sudan and Ethiopia. It is a stark, rugged landscape where nomads, who have changed little over centuries, still move their herds across the ecosystem chasing the ephemeral growth of grass. It is the emptiness and wildness that makes a visit to these reserves such an unforgettable experience.

Two into one:
The two reserves, Samburu to the north of the Ewaso Ngiro (brown water) River and Buffalo Springs to the south are usually treated as one unit, by tour companies as well as wildlife. A bridge across the Ewaso Ngiro River a little way upstream of Samburu Lodge connects the reserves. The major, central part of both reserves is dry, open, thorn bush country, which only becomes green during the rains. The river which originates on the Laikipia Plateau, fed by the runoff from the Aberdares and Mount Kenya, is a permanent source of water for animals and is lined by acacias, tamarind and doum palms.

A variety of animals can be found, including diminishing numbers of elephant and numerous buffalo and waterbuck that feed on the vegetation around the river and in the adjourning swamps. Impala herds, with one male guarding up to 50 females and young, graze along the riverine vegetation. Grevy’s zebra, beisa oryx, reticulated giraffe and gerenuk are only found in this sort of dry semi-arid country. Grevy’s zebra used to be poached for its fine, narrow striped skin by local poachers or exported to European zoos by expatriate entrepreneurs, and they are only slowly re-establishing a viable population. Oryx are very shy, relatively scarce animals with beautifully marked heads and long, straight horns. Dikdik are far more common andparticularly like the rocky hills and dry, acacia woodland to be found here.

Dinner guests:
Crocodiles sun themselves on the banks of rivers. Lion, cheetah and leopard are also fairly easy to see, thanks to the sparse grass cover. If you fail to see a leopard on one of your game drives, you can always watch them in the evening from the verandah of your lodge as they come to eat the bait hung from nearby trees.

Smaller mammals include ground squirrels which are common around the lodges and dwarf mongooses are frequently seen scampering across the open ground looking for food.

Birds are abundant, including the blue legged, northern Somali race of ostrich, which is particularly prominent during the breeding season. Numerous flocks of helmeted and vulturine guinea fowls can be seen especially in the afternoon as they go to the river to drink. Martial eagles, one of the largest of the eagles, are often seen perching on a vantage point scanning for movements in the grass indicating potential prey. Other birds of prey, such as bateleur and pygmy falcon are also common. Along the banks of the rivers, kingfishers and Layard’s black weavers are found. The rare bright green and red chested Narina’s trogan, a bird related to the parrot, is also found in the riverine woodland.

From Nairobi to the reserves, it is approximately 300 kilometres (186 miles) on tarmac up to Isiolo, then on dirt road for another 53 kilometres (33 miles). The most convenient entrance to the reserves is the Gare Mara Gate, 20 kilometres (12.5 miles) north of Isiolo, through the Buffalo Spring Reserve. Another entrance, three kilometres before reaching Archer’s Post, is called Buffalo Springs Gate. The road directly into Samburu Reserve, reached from the township of Archer’s Post, is in bad condition, but the journey is made more interesting by the several Samburu manyattas (enclosed villages) passed on the way.

The luxurious Samburu Lodge is on the north side of the river by the western boundary. You can watch crocodiles being fed on leftovers, and there is a platform where goat carcasses are hung from trees to attract the big cats, especially leopards. A tarmac airstrip is located nearby for tourists who do not wish to endure the long drive.

The equally well-appointed Buffalo Springs Tent Lodge is on the south bank, not far from the eastern gate. A short distance away are the clear pools of Buffalo Springs. The story goes that during World War II an Italian bomb, dropped by a plane from occupied Somalia, missed Isiolo township and formed the pool.