National Parks Africa » Murchison Falls National Park

Before the tragic effects of the Amin regime in the late 1970s, Murchison Falls National Park (MFNP) was the pride of the country and the main attraction for tourists. Its abundant game and dazzling scenery, together with a spectacular waterfall and the excellent fishing possibilities (especially for huge nile perch) had made it into a very appealing holiday resort. Two luxurious lodges, at Chobe and Paraa, offered all possible comforts to visitors.

The 3,900 square kilometre (1,560square-mile) park, the biggest in Uganda, is split into two sections by the River Nile, and is situated in the northwest of the country, close to where the Nile enters Lake Albert. The southern sector in Masindi district is bigger than in the north, but has fewer animals.

The park was gazetted in 1952 after sleeping sickness earlier this century made the area unsuitable for the grazing of livestock. It derived its name from the glorious Murchison Falls near the park headquarters at Paraa, where the Nile narrows to a mere two metres (6.6 feet) before it plunges 350 metres (1,150 feet) into the calmer waters below. Here is a completely different world where hippos, crocodiles and water birds quietly roam and elephant and buffalo gather to quench their thirst. This is a beautiful stretch of the river.

Loss of wildlife:
The present state of the game in MFNP recounts the sad history of wildlife in Uganda from the mid-1970s onwards. The days when elephant were the biggest threat to vegetation were abruptly curtailed. The devastating extent of poaching in MFNP has been unequalled elsewhere.

In the early 1980s carcasses outnumbered living elephants by a shocking three to one. Numbers of elephants were reduced from 15,000 in the early 1970s to only 1,200 in 1980. Continuing conflicts, especially in the northern sector, have made recent countings impossible, although game wardens are of the opinion—perhaps somewhat optimistically—that herds are once again on the increase.

Meanwhile, white and black rhinoceros are now completely extinct, and herds of buffalo, hippo and crocodile have been decimated in a similarly dramatic manner. Other animals have fared somewhat better and Uganda Rob, Jackson’s hartebeest, oribi, bohor’s reedbuck, duiker, warthog, Rothschild’s giraffe, lion, leopard, hyaena and numerous birds can still be found in the park.

Like most parks in the country, MFNP offers a wide variation in vegetation, ranging from semi-deciduous closed forest with Cynometra alexandri in the northern sector, to swamp vegetation along the valley floors. Savannah and shrubby acacia woodland cover large sections of the park.

In the 1960s and early 1970s woodlands suffered much damage from burning and being trampled by large herds of elephants. The lack of mid-term growth of trees has also led to the vast expansion of grasslands.

The future for MFNP still looks relatively grim. The northern sector remains insecure because of pockets of anti-government rebels, making work or visits to this remotesection of the park virtually impossible, or at least very risky. Only the more adventurous will travel here.

Meanwhile, access to the southern part is hindered by badly maintained roads. Paraa Lodge was restocked in 1987 but looted again later that same year. Moreover, the ferry which connects the two sections of the park has been out of order for many years.

On the brighter side, construction of the main road to Murchison Falls, built with the assistance of the European Economic Community, was finished in early 1989, and has opened up the southern section to the public once again. The first visitors to the northern section were reported in January 1989. There are also airstrips for light aircraft near the lodges.