National Parks Africa » Meru National Reserve

Meru National Park achieved world recognition with Joy Adamson’s Born Free, the story of Elsa the lioness that was rehabilitated to the wild. The similar tale of Pippa, her cheetah, was told in The Spotted Sphinx. After her release, Pippa eventually gave birth to two litters of fine cubs. Despite being one of the major national parks in Kenya and a very beautiful one, it is off the mainstream circuit for the majority of visitors. Still, it is strongly recommended you make an effort to visit this park.

The park covers an area of 800 square kilometres (320 square miles), lying to the west of Mount Kenya in the semiarid area of the country. It straddles the equator and ranges from an altitude of 1,000 metres (3,300 feet) in the foothills of the Nyambeni Range (the northern boundary) to less than 300 metres (990 feet) on the Tana River in the south.

The main tourist roads are in the western part with a few roads in the remote east. The eastern park boundary is bordered by the Bisanadi National Reserve and the Kora National Reserve. To the north of Kora is the Rahole National Reserve, which means that altogether there is an area of 4,670 square kilometres (1,868 square miles) of wildlife sanctuary.

Vegetation is mainly bushland with combretum bush prevailing in the north and commiphora in the south. The north-east is dominated by grassland with borassus palms and acacia woodland. There is plenty of water, the main perennial river being the Tana, which is the longest in Kenya. Many other small streams occur in the park. Most are bordered by riverine forest. Some valleys are partially flooded during the rainy season, providing a swampy grassland habitat favoured by buffalo and waterbuck.

Reviving stock:
Animal life is now plentiful, but game had virtually vanished by 1959, when the local council of the Wameru tribe seized the initiative from the colonial government and designated the area for conservation. Large numbers of buffalo can usually be found around the swamps and river. Big herds of elephant used to be seen quite often in the swamp area near the Meru Mulika Lodge. The Tana River provides a sanctuary for hippopotamus and crocodile. Black rhinos used to be abundant in the park, but sadly they too have been heavily poached, as was the small protected herd of white rhinos. In 1988 the five remaining animals were killed by poachers, aided, it is alleged, by a disgruntled park ranger who used to protect them. The white rhinos had been introduced from South Africa in the hope that they would breed to establish a viable herd. The name "white" does not refer to the colour of the animals but is a misinterpretation of the Africans word weft which means "wide" and refers to their broad mouths. White rhinos are mainly grazers whereas black rhinos are browsers.

Leopards have also been the focus of a re-population bid. Over the years, many have been brought in from other parts of Kenya.

Meru supports a range of species more usually found in northern protected areas, such as Grevy’s zebra (with narrower stripes than the more common Burchell’s zebra), beisa oryx and reticulated giraffe (rust-red coloured with distinctive thin white lines creating a "crazy paving" effect). Dikdik, gerenuk (which supposedly do not need water and survive on dew) and the big cats are abundant, but sometimes difficult to see because of the tall grass cover and thick bush. Eland and kongoni prefer the wetter grassland areas. Lesser kudu either alone or in pairs can be found in thickets or in valley bottoms in the evening.

Birdwatchers should look out for the relatively uncommon palm-nut vulture, which feeds on a mixture of palm nuts and carrion. In addition, the palm swift can be seen building its nest on the underside of palm fronds. Pel’s fishing owl and the rare Peter’s finfoot live near the Tana River. Peter’s finfoot resemble long-necked slender ducks or small cormorants. They are very secretive and are usually seen swimming under overhanging trees close to the bank. Helmeted and vulturine (with slender, striped necks) guinea fowl are common.

Wilderness area:
One section of the park has been designated a wilderness area, in which there are no roads. This area can only be reached by four-wheel drive vehicles, accompanied by an experienced ranger. Similarly, the 600 square kilometres (240 square miles) of the Bisanadi National Reserve, which adjoins Meru National Park, is undeveloped for tourism. Access is difficult even with four-wheel drive vehicles. The habitat, flora and fauna are similar to Meru, with more spectacular elongated rocky outcrops.

Two routes lead from Nairobi to Meru National Park: one around Mount Kenya, through Nanyuki and the other one through Embu. Both roads go to Meru town from where it is 78 kilometres (48 miles) to the park. If you govia Nanyuki, you can enter the park from the west using the Murera Gate.

Accommodation at Meru is available at the well-appointed Meru Mulika Lodge which has numerous thatched huts in an attractive setting. Below the lodge, large herds of elephant wander across Mulika Swamp. Some visitors prefer to fly in to avoid the slow and winding road.

Not far away, on the banks of Murera River, is Leopard Rock Self-help Lodge which has 10 bandas (rustic cabins with bathroom). You should bring your own food. There are also several other campsites which are marked on most maps.