National Parks Africa » Maasai Mara National Park

Although not the largest protected area, the Maasai Mara must be one of the best for game viewing. The Mara area is an extension of the famous Serengeti Plains (serenged in Maasai means extended place) just over the border in Tanzania. Animals don’t recognise international boundaries so every year, in July and August, over a million wildebeest and thousands of zebra migrate from the depleted grasslands of Tanzania to take advantage of the fresh grazing after the long rains in Kenya.

Migration madness:
They follow an established, circular route which begins in February with calving on the Serengeti plains 150 kilometres (93 miles) to the south. The route is inherited by instinct and crosses the Sand, Talek and Mara rivers at exactly the same place each year. The instinct that drivesthe herds is so strong that in southern Serengeti they swim or wade across small Lake Ndutu when they could easily go around it. They are naturally reluctant to enter the thick riparian bush but the pressure of wildebeest pushing from behind builds up until the front animals are forced to take the plunge, in mad, lemming-like, suicidal leaps which Alan Root has so spectacularly captured on film. Many animals get swept away and drown. After the territorital encounters, courtship and rutting season they migrate back to Tanzania following the short rains in November and December.

The Mara Game Reserve was established in 1961 and covers an area of some 1,800 square kilometres (720 square miles). The southern boundary lies on the border with Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park. The Loita Hills mark the eastern boundary; to the west lies the splendid Siria Escarpment and the north is bordered by the Itong Hills. The wide horizons are unforgettable and wildlife are clearly visible.

Plains Game:
The lush grasslands interspersed with silver and russet leaved Croton thickets, hillocks and forested river banks provides a good variety of habitats for wildlife. There is a small resident population of roan antelope, many buffalo as well as herds of Thomson’s and Grant’s gazelles, topi and impala. Predators include large prides of lions, a fair number of cheetahs and leopards, spotted hyaenas and the silver or black-backed jackal. African wild dogs are also found and two bedraggled groups of females which had originally been marked with radio collars by researchers in the Serengeti, ‘showed up in the Mara in the late 1980s.

There are over 450 recorded species of birds in this reserve, including the large orange-buff Pel’s fishing owl which is a common sight along the Mara River but rare elsewhere. Other common birds include kori bustards and various birds of prey.

The best time of year to visit the reserve is from July to October when the migration is at its peak and as many astwo million wildebeest and 500,000 zebra are grazing, fighting, courting and mating.

The Mara is the archetypical arena of conflicts between man and nature in modern Africa. Wheat-schemes and livestock improvement programmes to the north meet the greatest remaining wildlife migration to the south. At the interface, conservationists and ecologists strive to reconcile the needs and aspirations of the Maasai landowners. Although fraught with problems, many of the results have been encouraging apart from elephant and rhino poaching which is a blight thoughout Africa. Many tourism-based enterprises, such as tented camps, are run by local landowners who recognize that wildlife can be a resource worth husbanding.

The route to the Maasai Mara is via the Nairobi-Naivasha road, turning left after 56 kilometres (35 miles) towards Narok, 103 kilometres (64 miles) further away. The road continues through Narok then forks: four-wheel drive vehicles are usually necessary on the northern track leading to the west of the reserve. The road south leads to Keekorok Lodge, 106 kilometres (65 miles) away. Travelling from Nairobi can take anywhere between five and 10 hours depending on the season, but the travel time will get shorter as the roads improve nearer the reserve boundary.

Keekorok Lodge in the east was a traditional resting place on the long safari from the Serengeti to Nairobi. These days it is well laid out with cottages and good facilities including car mechanics—sometimes essential after the rough and bumpy roads!

Mara Serena Lodge in the west is set high on a saddle overlooking rolling grasslands and the far off Esoit Oloololo escarpment. Bedrooms are stylised mud manyattas grouped in outward-looking rings.

The Mara area has numerous tented camps including Governor’s Camp on the Mara River where old colonial governors used to pitch their tents. It is now a very up-market retreat. Kichwa Tembo (in Swahili, “elephant’s head”)

Camp and Fig Tree Camp offer romantic settings where you can lose yourself in the true safari atmosphere. Cottar’s Camp specializes in night drives and game walks. Mara Buffalo Camp, with thatched bandas is situated near the (supposedly) best stocked hippo pool in Kenya. A number of camp sites are also available, many of which are good examples of local entrepreneurship where Maasai landowners have recognised the potential gains to be made from wildlife. For all accommodation it is recommended to book in advance.

Taking flight:
Balloon safaris can be taken every morning from Keekorok, Mara Serena and Governor’s Camp. For an hour or so, up to 12 passengers float silently across the plains watching the game from barely 100 metres (330 feet) above. Vehicles follow the balloon to serve a champagne breakfast in the bush and bring the passengers back. Early morning fishing trips to Lake Victoria out of Governor’s Camp can also be arranged.