National Parks Africa » Lake Turkana National Park

Lake Turkana, known from Count Teleiki’s first exclamation as the Jade Sea, is so far off the beaten track that it gives the impression that time has stood still. The surrounding scrub desert enhances the colour of the lake which looks even more impressive because there is no contrasting greenery. It is set in the midst of volcanic formations and dry rivers known as "luggas" and is the northern-most lake in the Kenyan part of the Great Rift Valley, where temperatures can reach up to 50 C (122 F). From here, our earliest ancestors probably started organised hunting, harvesting and society. Today, the ethnic peoples inhabiting this region are nomadic pastoralists who seem hardly affected by modern life.

The largest population of Nile crocodiles in Kenya lives on the shores of the lake and a population of the largest freshwater fish in East Africa, the Nile perch, inhabits the lake and can grow to over 100 kilograms (220 pounds), much to the joy of sport fishermen.

The area is rich in birdlife. In (northern hemisphere) spring, black-tailed godwits and spotted redshanks can be seen in full breeding plumage. European migrants use this area as a stopover on their way north. Birds of prey are also abundant.

Ferguson’s Gulf is 64 kilometres (40 miles) north of Lodwar. It presents some of the best fishing opportunities in the country. Accommodation can be found at Lake Turkana Fishing Lodge, which is reached by taking a boat from the lake shore across Ferguson’s Gulf. The lodge is comfortable, with basic facilities. It even has a swimming pool filled with lakewater, which has an unmistakably soapy feel. Nothing harmful, except crocodiles, could survive in that! The food is good and the menu consists mainly of lake fish.

The gulf itself was quite dry during 1989 but it will certainly fill again as the lake level rises with the next good period of rains. As you drive to the jetty from the airstrip or the end of the tarmac road from Nairobi, the hulk of a beached Norwegian fishing boat can be seen, a monument to a development aid scheme gone wrong. The Turkana are adaptable people and are able to survive in such a harsh environment by embracing fishing as well as herding. They also enjoy a deserved reputation as fearless watchmen.

The Cherangani Hills to the south and west of Ferguson’s Gulf are one of the great unknown trekking areas in the world. The view from the ridge tops is magnificent yet has only been seen by a handful of hearty walkers.

Central Island, in the middle of Lake Turkana, can be reached by boat from Ferguson’s Gulf. The island’s main crater lake is a nesting point for an extremely large number of crocodiles and many water birds. Once on the island, the rest of the trip has to be undertaken on foot, which can be very strenuous in the heat of the day. Until recently, the island was populated more by immigrant Luo fishermen from Lake Victoria than by crocodiles.

South Island is the birdwatcher’s and Nile perch fisherman’s paradise of Lake Turkana. Care must be exercised if you are camping rough since the ever-present large population of crocodiles can be dangerous. The airstrip on the island is a twisted, rock-strewn horror and a challenge for every bush pilot in Kenya!

Adjacent to the eastern shores of Lake Turkana, Sibiloi National Park covers 2,500 square kilometres (1,000 square miles) of barren, semi-arid bush-land. Richard Leakey has found many important fossils of early man and animals in this ancient location and a fascinating archaeological museum has been opened at Koobi Fora. Grevy’s zebra and beisa oryx can be seen. There is no water here so come prepared if venturing into this area by car. Access is mostly by plane, unless you have at least a week and access to a sturdy four-wheel drive vehicle.