National Parks Africa » Lake Nakuru National Park

Lake Nakuru National Park was created in 1961 as a bird sanctuary. Originally, it comprised only the lake and its immediate surroundings, including the escarpment at its western side known as Baboon Cliffs. It was expanded in 1974 with help from the World Wildlife Fund, and now includes an extensive area of savannah to the south. Today the total area of the park is about 200 square kilometres (80 square miles). The name Nakuru is derived from the Maasai word en-akuro, meaning "swirling dust".

Pretty in pink:
The park is famous for its concentrations of both greater and lesser flamingoes, which cover the lake in a layer of shocking pink. The numbers of flamingoes fluctuates in accordance with the availability of blue-green algae known as Spirulinga. Thealgae is sensitive to the salt concentration of the water so its "blooming" is related to the amount of rainfall which in turn determines the amount of water available to dilute or concentrate the salt solution. The lake level varies considerably. In the late 1950s, for example, it dried out completely and the resulting dustbowl made life unbearable in the busy farming town of Nakuru on the lakeside. When conditions are right, there can be around two million flamingoes milling about the shallows—the spectacle is truly awe inspiring. When disturbed, the pink clouds reeling through the sky are an amazing sight.

For many years it was a mystery where flamingoes went to nest in reliable numbers since they do not nest on the lake. The well-known ornithologist, Leslie Brown, spent many years trying to establish their nesting grounds. He even took flying lessons, and eventually found their regular nesting site on another Rift Valley water body, Lake Natron, just over the border in Tanzania. His fascinating book The Mystery of the Flamingoes is essential reading for any birdwatcher visiting Kenya.

Birds of paradise:
The park is considered an ornithological paradise. Over 400 varieties of birds can be seen altogether, although not at the same time since many are migrant visitors from the northern hemisphere. During the European and East Asian winters the park becomes an important feeding ground for migrant waders. Among them are little stints, curlew sandpipers, marsh sandpipers and greenshanks. Great numbers of pelicans can be seen at the southern and eastern shores. The numbers of these birds has increased considerably since the alkaline and high temperature-tolerant Tilapia grahami fish were introduced to the lake in the early 1960s. Pelicans feed by working as a team, herding the fish towards each other, and then dipping into the water in unison to increase their catch.

Verreaux’s eagles can be seen using the updrafts around Baboon Cliffs to search for prey along the cliffs. Other birds of prey commonly seen are long crested eagles, Augur buzzards, harrier eagles, fish eagles, gabar goshawks and harrier hawks. The acacia woodlands harbour a number of birds, including red-chested cuckoos (the bird which chants: "it-will-rain, it-will-rain" before the rains), African hoopoes and grey-headed kingfishers.

The park has now been fenced in to make a rhino sanctuary. Rhinos have been moved here from elsewhere in Kenya and they seem to be thriving in this environment. Other species of mammal include lion, leopard and hyaena. It is the best place in Kenya to see Bohor reedbuck and Defassa waterbuck. A herd of Rothschild giraffe was introduced in 1977.

Lake Nakuru is 150 kilometres (93 miles) from Nairobi on a good tarmac road. Part of the way is along the edge of the Rift Valley Escarpment and the views are spectacular. Lion Hill Camp is perched on higher ground by the eastern boundary overlooking the lake. It is also adjacent to Kenya’s finest euphorbia forest with grotesque, giant cactus-like trees. On cold evenings a fire is lit by the bar. Lake Nakuru Lodge used to be part of Lord Delamare’s estate and, apart from the main manor house, there are new bandas. Safari vehicles are available for hire and an airstrip is close by. There are also two well-maintained campsites with good water supplies.