National Parks Africa » Amboseli National Park

Amboseli is one of the oldest national parks in East Africa, having enjoyed more or less protected status for over 40 years. It was originally part of the Southern Maasai Reserve which also encompassed the Kajiado and Narok area where several clans of the nomadic, Nilo-hemitic Maasai people lived. The park became the Amboseli Reserve in 1948 when the right of the Maasai people to live there was recognised and a special area for wildlife was set aside. In 1961 the Amboseli Reserve was handed over to Maasai Tribal Control and became a Maasai Game Reserve together with the much larger Maasai Mara Reserve.

However, competition for grazing became such a problem that in 1970 a sanctuary around the swamp was preserved for game only and the Maasai were not allowed to enter. This aggrieved them so much that they killed many of the rhino population without even taking their horns. Consequently, a ring of bore holes around the park and a portion of the swamp was given back to the Maasai in exchange for an area to the north. Eventually, in 1977, Amboseli achieved full National Park status.

Elephant tales:
Lying at the foot of Africa’s highest mountain, Kilimanjaro, Amboseli National Park is famous for its tranquil beauty and easily approachable wildlife. The Amboseli elephant population, only some 600 strong, is one of the few in all of Africa which has not been ravaged by poachers. It is also one of the longest studied and best researched by Cynthia Moss and her colleagues who know every elephant by face and name and have written about them in the book, Elephant Memories.

Clouds of soda dust which blow up from the perennially dry bed of the pleistocene Lake Amboseli provide a stark contrast to the lush vegetation of the swamps which form the heart of the ecosystem. The swamps are fed by the melting snows of Kilimanjaro which percolate through porous volcanic soils, forming underground streams which rise close to the surface in the ancient lake basin.

Lake Amboseli, from which the park takes its name, is a dry lake, some 10 by 16 kilometres (six by 10 miles), and is only flooded during the rare occasions when there are heavy rains. The maximum depth in the wettest years is about half a metre (two feet) but the surface is more usually a dry, caked expanse of volcanic soil. The fine, alkaline dust has a habit of creeping into every crevice, so photographic equipment should be protected in plastic bags.

Forests of towering yellow-barked fever trees used to surround the swamps but their numbers were gradually reduced by the elephant population which stripped off and ate the bark and were initially blamed for all the damage. However, it was then discovered that the naturally rising water table, induced by a period of good rains, was bringing toxic salts to the surface which were “pickling” the tree roots. This caused physiological drought because the trees could not absorb enough water to compensate for that lost from the leaves through transpiration. Even today you can see moribund fever trees which appear to be dying from the top down. Overall however, the park has a varied habitat with open plains, umbrella acacia woodland and the swamps and surrounding marsh areas.

Park life:
Due to the open nature of most of Amboseli, lions are easily found and can occasionally be watched stalking their prey. Buffalo numbers have increased and plains game such as zebra, giraffe and gazelle abound. Small groups of gerenuk can occasionally be found in the and bush standing on their hind legs to browse upon more succulent leaves on the higher branches.

Hippos live in the open waters and swamp channels formed by seeping waters from Kilimanjaro. Buffalos feed in the shore line swamps and elephants often emerging with a high tide mark on their flanks.

For years ecological and behavioural studies of these beasts have been carried out in the park, so animals are accustomed to cars and visitors will be able to observe these large mammals in close proximity from inside their vehicles. However, historical as well as recent encounters with Maasai warriors have left the animals particularly wary of people on foot. An elephant feeding peacefully three metres (10 feet) from your car will run off in alarm-or attack in a rage if someone suddenly gets out.

The density of visitors has had negative impacts on wildlife. Cheetahs, for example, have been so harassed by crowding vehicles, that they have abandoned their usual habit of hunting in the early morning and late afternoon, and have taken to hunting at midday, when most tourists are back at the lodge having lunch and a siesta. Since this is not the best time of day to hunt, the result has been a reduction in the cheetahs’ reproductive success.

The swamps and marshy areas support a wide variety of water fowl with no less than 12 species of heron. Over 400 different birds can be found since the park encompasses both dry and wet habitats. Taveta golden weavers are very common. Birds of prey are also represented with over 10 varieties of eagle, as well as kites, buzzards, goshawks and harriers.

Just the facts:
Amboseli can be reached from Nairobi by two main routes, the most common one being along the main Kajiado-Namanga road, turning left at Namanga, entering the park through the main gate near Namanga and following the road to 01 Tukai Lodge. The distance from Nairobi to the lodge is 240 kilometres (150 miles). The second access point is along the main Mombasa road, turning right just beyond the railway bridge past Emali and then following the Oloitokitok road for approximately 65 kilometres (40 miles), taking another right turn near the flat-top Lemeiboti hill and following this road for 32 kilometres (20 miles) before reaching the lodge. This route is shorter but the Namanga road is in better condition. Flights from Nairobi are also available.

The original camp at 01 Tukai was built as a film-set amenity in 1948 for The Snows of Kilimanjaro. These buildings remain as self-help bandas (grass-thatched, traditionally-styled houses), but nearby is Amboseli Lodge with international standards of accommodation and cuisine. Other lodges include: Kilimanjaro Safari Lodge with a seasonal swamp where game congregate, and Amboseli Serena Lodge which is built in the style of a Maasai manyatta, near the well-head of one of the springs feeding Enkongo Narok swamp.

Outside the park is Kilimanjaro Buffalo Lodge, about 15 kilometres (9 miles) from the Kimana. Gate on the Emali road. Since this lodge is not restricted by game park regulations visitors are allowed to take game walks. Kimana Lodge is also outside the park, about 80 kilometres (50 miles) from Emali.