NEPAL’S BRILLIANT FESTIVAL TOUR
CHODA JATRA

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Ghoda Jatra is a one-day, festival that takes place in April. This horse-racing celebration is a lively and bustling affair attended by Nepalese from all over the country. The races and performances of the day takes place at the Tundikhel Parade grounds located near the post office in Kathmandu center. It is often a bit difficult to observe the happenings as the areas is usually thronged with people and the good vantage points are often occupied hours before the festival begins, however with patience and a bit of manouevering you can often get close to the action.

The activities are organised by the Nepalese military who put on a show of military weaponry, horse and cycle racing and gymnastic activities. The contests last approximately 2 hours and the winners receive medals presented by the King. The races usually start at mid-afternoon between 2 and 3 o’clock.

The festival’s origin supposedly springs from a battle in which an oppressive demon was finally defeated by local Kathmandu inhabitants. The spirit of the demon is said to be imprisoned beneath the parade grounds and Nepalese believe that the trampling of the horse hooves above the grave annually keep the demon away for another year.

Years ago the commencement of the festival was signalled by the appearance of His Majesty the King and the Kumari (the small child selected to reign as a “living goddess” over her people until puberty). They would ride together through the streets of the city to the temple of Badrakali near the southeast corner of the parade grounds to worship. At present the event is still attended by both the King and the Kumari, yet the festival itself has become more of an official sports contest presided over by His Majesty and observed by Kumari from a nearby building.

Shortly before the annual races begin Kumari is taken from her house in Durbar Square and carried on a platformed throne through Indrachowk and the alleyways of Kathmandu. Escorted by Gorkha guards in 18th century regalia she is taken to a 2nd storey of the Royal Nepal Airlines office to watch the festivities from a calmer and quieter location.

At the same time the horse racing festival commence in Kathmandu a parody of the festival takes place in Patan, a small city 8 km from the capital. The reason for this internatinal mockery is found in ancient history when Patan was a rival kingdom whose inhabitants were not allowed to attend the horse-races at Tundikhel. The king of patan supposedly declared their own festival would take place this time instead of using many horses only one would be allowed to race. Also instead of a trim military rider a drunken stable boy would be placed upon the mount. The horse is also fed grain soaked in alcohol and then whacked on by the crowd through Mangal Bazaar ending the “race” at Bal Kumari temple near the Bagman river. Ghoda Jatra in both Kathmandu and Patan is generally regarded as a time of revellry, when much drinking singing and dancing take place. The festivities usually end at sunset when weary observers make their way back to their houses to deer off the day’s celebrations.

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