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Holidays in Sunderbans

CHRONICLES OF THE MANGROVES SUNDERBANS

It is said say that Sunderbans gets its name from the Sundari trees which were once found in abundance in this marshy region. Today, like the tigers, the trees too have dwindled in numbers, though the name still bears testimony to the fact that its lush, green forests were once even more verdant. But for me, the place gets its name simply because it is sundar (Bengali for beautiful) and makes for one of the most enticing bans (Bengali for forest).

Home to the world famous Royal Bengal Tiger, Sunderbans is often compared to the Amazon basin for its biodiversity. At the beginning of my trip, I was looking forward to some thrill and excitement; what I eventually came back with was an experience of a lifetime. The forest mesmerised me and made me realise why it is called Sunderbans.

THE GEOGRAPHY
Sunderbans comprises of three islands namely Goasaba, Sandeshkali and Basanti. These islands form the northern boundary of Sunderbans while on the south is the sea. To the west of the mangrove forest lies the Matla and Bidya rivers while Bangladesh lies to the east. Sunderbans’ distinctive geographical location gives it one of the most unique ecosystems. The tiger reserve encompasses both land and water, and is spread over India and Bangladesh. The delta is formed by the meeting of three mighty rivers – the Brahmaputra and Ganges in India, and Meghna in Bangladesh. Spread across 1,330 sq km of swamp and mangrove forests, it is nothing less than heaven for nature lovers.

THE JOURNEY
The place is best approached via the river so as to avoid road blocs and traffic jams. You can embark on a cruise from Kolkata itself; else, you can reach the nearest town Canning and hire a motor launch. The cruise would allow you to witness rural Bengal besides enjoy the sights and sounds of nature at your own pace. The beauty of the fairytale-ish forests unveil as you penetrate them deeper. It takes a while for the view and peace to sink in; and then you wait with bated breath to catch a glimpse of the elusive tiger.

When my boat took a turn at the narrow creek, I looked around anticipant and wondering whether this trip would let me set eyes on the beast. Friends who had been to the mangrove had mentioned that getting a glimpse of the tiger was as elusive as getting to see the Kanchenjunga. As evening had set in, we were advised to retire to our resort for the night, for besides the chance of being attacked by the tiger, there also lurked other dangers like the crocodile.

THE STAY
Night stay at Sunderbans is an experience in itself. On the one hand, you know that you are safe in your room, but at the same time you know that you are the next-door neighbour to the tiger that is well known for its shrewdness and agility. This place is certainly this not for the weak-hearted! Dawn spreads magic at Sunderbans, and it spells serenity and splendour as you watch the day break over the green horizon; serenity because there is pin-drop silence around you (except the faint murmurs of nature), and splendour because town-dwellers like us have never nature in such glory.

At 5 am, our launch sailed again – this time in search of the king of the forest. As the vessel waded through narrow creeks, all us occupants clamoured to the deck, looking awestruck at the deep forests. The first stop was the Sajnekhali sanctuary. A cruise down the Matla river took us to the Sajnekhali Tiger Reserve at the junction of Peechkhali and the Gomti river.

A must-visit spot in this region is the Mangrove Interpretation Centre that documents the various facets of the mangrove forests and make people aware of the need to conserve them. And even’if you are an atheist, do not forget to stop by at the temple of Bon Bibi, the goddess of the forest. Every wood cutter and honey collector stops by at this temple to offer prayers before entering the dense forests. The temple is not an architectural wonder, but people have invested in this structure for ages, and their faith has made it special.

Our cruise continued and just before noon, we reached the Sudhanyakhali Watch Tower. Located deep within the Reserve Forest Area, this watch tower is the perfect place to view wildlife. With a sweet water pond close by, most animals stop here for a glug. If you are in luck, you may even catch the tiger; else you will have to be content with watching deer and monkeys at the pond.

With or without a tiger sighting, Sunderbans bombards you with a variety of wildlife that you wouldn’t even dream of seeing in the city. From kingfishers, plovers, lap wings, white-bellied sea eagles, curfews, whimbrels, sandpipers to pelicans, winged creatures welcome you with their cacophony. As you cruise in the narrow creeks, aquatic creatures fill the waters and the landscape with colour a wide variety of fish, red fiddler crabs, hermit crabs, humongous crocodiles sunning along the mud banks, Olive Ridley sea turtles which nest at the island of Kanak – are found in plenty. The Olive Ridley is not the only endangered species found in the region – the River Terrapin or the’Royal Turtle’ is found on the Mechua Beach, while barking deer can be seen on Haliday Island.

In fact, the cruise is an experience in itself. When sailing throughthe forests, you suddenly realise that you have reached the sea and there is no sign of land anywhere. Ahead stretches the vast blue ocean while behind you lies the forest, and the seamless view overpowers you. The most impressionable part of the view is where the Ganges meets the Bay of Bengal. If you look closely, you can see the merging of the ocean’s blue and the river’s muddy waters.

TIME TO SET OFF
These magical mangrove could coax and tempt you to stay on forever. Already feeling low about going back to the rigours and monotony of the daily grind in the city, I was complaining about not having seen even a fleeting glance of black stripes. Hearing my rue, a local mentioned that there was another watch tower at Netidhopan where chances of catching stripes were higher. The launch was moving away from the dark forests. I glanced back for the last time and promised myself a date with the Royal Bengal Tiger some time very soon.