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Hill Stations in Andhra Pradesh

THE SMALLEST HILL STATION IN INDIA HORSLEY HILL ANDHRA PRADESH

One of the smallest hill stations in India, Horsley Hills has all the making of a getaway – refreshing greens, captivating views, crisp air and quietude

It is so small and so little-known, that you will almost miss it on the map of Andhra Pradesh. There are chances that you may even drive past it! Moreover, Horsley Hills, unlike its more high-profile counterparts The south - like Ooty, Coorg or Kodaikanal - does not boast of five-star resorts or a regular stream of celebrity visitors. Tucked away southern AP and close to the state’s most famed (and the country’s most-visited) pilgrim centres of Tirupati and Puttaparthi, Horsley Hills is a sleepy hill-station and a small outcrop of hills in the Eastern Ghats.

Though some say that Matheran in Maharashtra is India’s smallest hill station, but a visit to Horsley Hills is enough to dismiss that claim. Every place or spot worth seeing here is ^within a two to three km radius. But that is its charm. There are no hawkers or beggars to disturb your peace, or souvenir-loaded shops and pushcarts vying for attention. In fact, if you pick the right time (off season or late November to mid-January) you can virtually have the whole hill station to yourself!

The place gets its name from W.D. Horsley, the then-collector of Cuddapah district, who came here to escape the oppressive heat of the town. He was so enchanted by the dense forest and exotic birds that he made it his summer residence. Later, British officers followed suit and an elegant villa was built for the governor.

Horsley Hills was formerly called Yenugu Mallamma Konda after the local goddess Mallamma who was believed to have been lookec after by elephants (yenugus in Telugu). The locals still use that name, though officially the place bears Horsley’s name.

An eight-km drive from nearby Madanapalle town up a winding road flanked by a jungle drops you off at Horsley Hills. The drive is made pleasant by the variety of trees like teak, allamanda, eucalyptus, gulmohar, jacaranda and sandalwood - the handful ones that have escaped the smugglers’ axe - as you ascend the steep climb.

At approximately 4,300 ft, Horsley Hills has a maximum temperature of 32 degree Celsius (in summer) and a minimum of 20 degrees Celsius in winter. And if you are driving in from the arid and murderously hot Cuddapah town nearby, this weather is sheer bliss.

On the way is a Deer Rehabilitation Centre and you can spot them ambling across the road if you happen to be there early in the morning. The surrounding jungle is home to leopards, bear and wild-boar. The AP Tourism office can arrange guided eco-treks for those keen to see the jungle’s flora and fauna.

We checked into the gracious, old-world style Governor’s Bungalow. It is not only charming and elegant with British-style broad verandahs, spacious rooms with high-ceilings and large windows, but is also located much above the rest of the accommodations, which ensures the great views of the surroundings.

Every place worth seeing here is within a 2-3 km radius. And that is its charm. There are no hawkers or beggars to disturb the peace, or souvenir-loaded shops vying for attention. All vantage points are within a few feet of the Governor’s Bungalow. The rest department grounds next door house an aviary, a museum, and a 150-year-old eucalyptus tree

The well-known and designated viewpoints of Horsley Hills are all only a few feet away from the Bungalow. From the Valley View Point just behind the Bungalow, you get a breathtaking view of the lush valley below and the surrounding landscape of miles of paddy fields, rural settlements and small towns of AP and neighbouring Karnataka. Standing at this vantage point, enjoying the cool breeze, and the sweet smell of sampangi flowers (which is a favourite head adornment of the locals) and eucalyptus trees.

As you walk around this hill station, you will find more than one rewarding viewpoints, as we did. But that was only after being snagged by thorns and clambering the rocks. But once we reached the settlement of the Mayuri tribals in that area, we found plenty of photo-ops. Though most of the tribals have become urbanised, a few still sport the traditional attire and bunched-up hairstyle, and large, chunky jewellery. And most of them posed willingly.

The next morning, a thick mist had fallen around the hills, and as we left for our morning walk, we tripped over quite a few rocks because of the poor visibility. Upon our return an hour later, we saw two children walking towards us with fruit baskets balanced on their head, food-bearing cloth bags swinging by their side and two cows ambling alongside. They made for a simple and completely endearing sight. Later in the morning, we walked down – a mere three minutes – to the Forest Department grounds next door that house an aviary with exotic birds, both native and foreign, a small museum, and a magnificent, award-winning 150-year-old eucalyptus tree named Kalyani. Around this area were the Gali Bandalu (Telugu for windy rocks) where strong winds blow all day, and is a must-see.

Everything within Horsley Hills that has to be seen or done can be sampled and experienced within a couple of days. It is not the kind of place where you go sightseeing, but is a getaway in the real sense of the word. If you like nothing more than days spent in quiet contemplation or some time to oneself for writing or reading, then Horsley Hills and within it the Governor’s Bungalow is the place to head to.

For a change of air, drive down to Madanapalle, an hour away, which houses the Rishi Valley School of philosopher Jiddu Krishnamurthi, or take time out to go silk-shopping. The main town of Madanapalle houses silkweaving-cum-retail centres in many of its homes. The richly-coloured silks in vibrant designs are available as saris, dhotis, kurtas and kurtis, and that too at bargainable prices.

For those jaded with larger hill stations overrun by tourists, touts, guides and mushrooming hotels, the sleepy, little-visited and sparsely-populated Horsley Hills is quite appealing. Small is beautiful here.

GETTING THERE
Tirupati and Bangalore are the nearest airports. Horsley Hills is approximately 150 km from Bangalore, and about 13 km from Madanapalle town; NH 205 passes through it.

WHERE TO STAY
The Haritha Horsley Hills Resort run by APTDC, and the Governor’s Bungalow are the best accomodation options. The resort has conference facilities too. Besides these options, there are government rest houses of the Police, Revenue and Forest departments as well. There are cottages and rooms at other properties as well, but they are avoidable.

WHERE TO EAT
The restaurant at Haritha is the best bet as the hillstation does not have good walk-in restaurants. Else, drive down to Madanapalle for a meal.

MOBILE CONNECTIVITY
All mobile-service providers provide connectivity, though reception may be poor or even die down if you venture far into the jungle.

PLACES TO VISIT
The Mallamma temple, department grounds, trek vantage points, Chenchu Mayuri tribe settlements.

WHAT TO BUY
Fresh honey from the Forest Department office next to the Governor’s Bungalow, and terracotta products in the surrounding villages. Madanapalle has a famed silk-wearing centre where you can pick up good quality silkwear.

CHECK LIST
Take some woollies like sweaters, jackets, socks and mufflers as early morning and late evening walks can be a chilly affair. Carry walking shoes as the terrain is uneven, and also because the place offers great trekking options. High heels or sandals can be uncomfortable even for ambling around the resort. Also, carry loads of extra film rolls and batteries as both are difficult to source around here if you run out of them.

AROUND HORSLEY HILLS
Some 85 km away is the Kaundinya Wildlife Sanctuary with its wealth of wildlife including the four-horned antelope, sloth bear, panther, elephant, porcupine and more.