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- LAOTIAN
Often overlooked, the Laotian capital has plenty of charming boutiques and restaurants. Textile designer Carol Cassidy reveals to JENNIFER CHEN her favourite spots.
When Carol Cassidy—a Connecticut-born weaver—arrived in Laos in 1989, few people outside of the country were aware of its ancient traditions of elaborate hand woven silks. Originally tasked by the United Nations to help spark, international interest in Laotian silk textiles, Cassidy quickly realized the potential of this traditional art form and the country’s incredibly skilled weavers, and later launched her own workshop and store, Lao Textiles Focussing on high-quality fabrics that riff on traditional motifs, she now works closely with some of the world’s top architects and interior decorators. Her museum-worthy handicrafts are also sold in upscale stores such as ABC Carpet & Home and Barney’s, both in New York City. Here is her guide to the best shops, restaurants and attractions that Vientiane has to offer.
TEXTILE TIPS
Other than her own shop, Cassidy recommends Vientiane’s largest market, the sprawling Talat Sao (Th. Lan Xang), also known as the Morning Market, where row upon row of stalls are stuffed with fabrics. “It’s this whole collage of textures and colours,” she enthuses. ‘And it’s just a lot of fun.” For those looking for a calmer setting, it’s worth seeking out local weaver Taykeo Sayuavongkhamdy’s eponymous Taykeo Gallery for its naturally dyed traditional textiles. Takyeo, who is from southern Laos, also stocks antique textiles collected ft-om her home village and elsewhere. Long-established Phaeng Mai is a good option for contemporary woven silks.
STYLISH FURNISHINGS
If you’re willing to arrange and pay for shipping, Vientiane offers some great furniture buys. You’ll find exquisitely elegant pieces at Mandalay Furniture The shop is run by Frenchwoman Marie Elene Boute, who combines Laotian designs with classic European styles.
FASHION OASIS
Clothes shopping is a bit hard in Vientiane. There aren’t that many choices,” Cassidy concedes. That said, she relies on French-educated designer Isabelle Souvanlasy at Tamarind (Th. Manthourad; Asian-influenced styles, usually fashioned out of airy linens and sumptuous silks.
BEST ROOMS
Accommodation in Vientiane has come a long way from backpacker guesthouses. Cassidy suggests the centrally located Chantapanya Hotel which offers comfortable, tastefully decorated rooms and modern amenities at reasonable prices. If you’re after opulence, head straight for the stylish Settha Palace Built in 1932, the hotel was restored to its former glory nearly a decade ago, and it still has the plushest rooms on offer.
SIGHT WORTH SEEING
Behind Wat In Paeng—one of Vientiane’s numerous Buddhist temple which has recently turned its rooftop terrace into a centre aimed at raising awareness of the plight of Laos’s elephants. (Laos was once known as the Land of a Million Elephants. Today, the elephant population has dwindled to around 2,000, according to scientists.) Called the La Matson de (‘Elephant, the centre also features a cafe and shop—all proceeds from which go towards elephant conservation programmes.
COFFEE CORNER
Though not as well known as Vietnamese coffee, Laotian beans produce a heady, aromatic brew. Cassidy drops into Matson du Cafe to sample some of the local brew Just north of Nam Phu Fountain Square, this spot lacks in atmosphere but it’s earned the loyalty of European expats for its strong coffee concoctions.
LUNCHING IN LAOS
Makphet serves its version of East-meets-West cuisine. “The cooking also brings French flavour and flair to traditional Lao dishes,” says Cassidy, “there’s nothing like it here.” Not only is the food delicious, but you’re also eating fora good cause. Run by Friends International, an NGO that works with street children, the restaurant, which opened in November 2006, also serves as a vocational school, training homeless teenagers in the kitchen and the dining room. Le Silapa which is owned by two childhood friends from Quebec, Canada, offers a lunchtime prix fix option for USD 7.50. Still hungry?
LA DOLCE VITA
When it comes to fine dining, L’Opera, located right off Nam Phu Fountain Square, is your best bet. Run by a Roman, Pino Peruzzi, and a Milanese, Giancarlo Pozzoli, this local institution has been dishing up homemade pastas and other Italian specialties for 15 years.
DRINKING IN THE SUNSET
There’s no better way to end a day of sightseeing than sipping sunset drinks on the banks of the mighty Mekong. The place to be is Mekong Deck in the centre of town. “It’s right on the river; there’s basically nothing between you and the Mekong,” Cassidy explains.
RURAL RESPITES
Though it’s still a far cry from the frenetic pace of Bangkok or Hong Kong, Vientiane is becoming increasingly busy, says Cassidy. Fortunately, getting to the peaceful countryside is quite easy. One retreat is Ban Pako, an eco-lodge situated along the Nam Ngum River, about 50 kilometres east of Vientiane. The lodge’s location is actually an archaeological site, and excavations have unearthed artefacts dating back two millennia. Guests can hike in the surrounding jungle and bamboo forests, visit nearby villages, swim in the river or just kick back.
Often overlooked, the Laotian capital has plenty of charming boutiques and restaurants. Textile designer Carol Cassidy reveals to JENNIFER CHEN her favourite spots.
When Carol Cassidy—a Connecticut-born weaver—arrived in Laos in 1989, few people outside of the country were aware of its ancient traditions of elaborate hand woven silks. Originally tasked by the United Nations to help spark, international interest in Laotian silk textiles, Cassidy quickly realized the potential of this traditional art form and the country’s incredibly skilled weavers, and later launched her own workshop and store, Lao Textiles Focussing on high-quality fabrics that riff on traditional motifs, she now works closely with some of the world’s top architects and interior decorators. Her museum-worthy handicrafts are also sold in upscale stores such as ABC Carpet & Home and Barney’s, both in New York City. Here is her guide to the best shops, restaurants and attractions that Vientiane has to offer.
TEXTILE TIPS
Other than her own shop, Cassidy recommends Vientiane’s largest market, the sprawling Talat Sao (Th. Lan Xang), also known as the Morning Market, where row upon row of stalls are stuffed with fabrics. “It’s this whole collage of textures and colours,” she enthuses. ‘And it’s just a lot of fun.” For those looking for a calmer setting, it’s worth seeking out local weaver Taykeo Sayuavongkhamdy’s eponymous Taykeo Gallery for its naturally dyed traditional textiles. Takyeo, who is from southern Laos, also stocks antique textiles collected ft-om her home village and elsewhere. Long-established Phaeng Mai is a good option for contemporary woven silks.
STYLISH FURNISHINGS
If you’re willing to arrange and pay for shipping, Vientiane offers some great furniture buys. You’ll find exquisitely elegant pieces at Mandalay Furniture The shop is run by Frenchwoman Marie Elene Boute, who combines Laotian designs with classic European styles.
FASHION OASIS
Clothes shopping is a bit hard in Vientiane. There aren’t that many choices,” Cassidy concedes. That said, she relies on French-educated designer Isabelle Souvanlasy at Tamarind (Th. Manthourad; Asian-influenced styles, usually fashioned out of airy linens and sumptuous silks.
BEST ROOMS
Accommodation in Vientiane has come a long way from backpacker guesthouses. Cassidy suggests the centrally located Chantapanya Hotel which offers comfortable, tastefully decorated rooms and modern amenities at reasonable prices. If you’re after opulence, head straight for the stylish Settha Palace Built in 1932, the hotel was restored to its former glory nearly a decade ago, and it still has the plushest rooms on offer.
SIGHT WORTH SEEING
Behind Wat In Paeng—one of Vientiane’s numerous Buddhist temple which has recently turned its rooftop terrace into a centre aimed at raising awareness of the plight of Laos’s elephants. (Laos was once known as the Land of a Million Elephants. Today, the elephant population has dwindled to around 2,000, according to scientists.) Called the La Matson de (‘Elephant, the centre also features a cafe and shop—all proceeds from which go towards elephant conservation programmes.
COFFEE CORNER
Though not as well known as Vietnamese coffee, Laotian beans produce a heady, aromatic brew. Cassidy drops into Matson du Cafe to sample some of the local brew Just north of Nam Phu Fountain Square, this spot lacks in atmosphere but it’s earned the loyalty of European expats for its strong coffee concoctions.
LUNCHING IN LAOS
Makphet serves its version of East-meets-West cuisine. “The cooking also brings French flavour and flair to traditional Lao dishes,” says Cassidy, “there’s nothing like it here.” Not only is the food delicious, but you’re also eating fora good cause. Run by Friends International, an NGO that works with street children, the restaurant, which opened in November 2006, also serves as a vocational school, training homeless teenagers in the kitchen and the dining room. Le Silapa which is owned by two childhood friends from Quebec, Canada, offers a lunchtime prix fix option for USD 7.50. Still hungry?
LA DOLCE VITA
When it comes to fine dining, L’Opera, located right off Nam Phu Fountain Square, is your best bet. Run by a Roman, Pino Peruzzi, and a Milanese, Giancarlo Pozzoli, this local institution has been dishing up homemade pastas and other Italian specialties for 15 years.
DRINKING IN THE SUNSET
There’s no better way to end a day of sightseeing than sipping sunset drinks on the banks of the mighty Mekong. The place to be is Mekong Deck in the centre of town. “It’s right on the river; there’s basically nothing between you and the Mekong,” Cassidy explains.
RURAL RESPITES
Though it’s still a far cry from the frenetic pace of Bangkok or Hong Kong, Vientiane is becoming increasingly busy, says Cassidy. Fortunately, getting to the peaceful countryside is quite easy. One retreat is Ban Pako, an eco-lodge situated along the Nam Ngum River, about 50 kilometres east of Vientiane. The lodge’s location is actually an archaeological site, and excavations have unearthed artefacts dating back two millennia. Guests can hike in the surrounding jungle and bamboo forests, visit nearby villages, swim in the river or just kick back.
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