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ANDAMANS

The Andaman Islands, 800 miles off the Indian mainland are a naturalist’s paradise. The skies, the sea, the rich dense forests are the home of some exotic and -rare species that excite ecologists.

Consisting of 300 islands, islets, rocks and sand bars this archipelago is amongst the most far flung regions of India. Labyrinthine island groupscovered with scrub and creepers. A casual glance around and you can spot brilliant tropical flowers including orchids. Broken branches and fallen leaves form the pathways through the jungle.
Caves and caverns are another interesting aspect of these islands since most of them are quite rocky. The sandy beaches where the boats can land are interspersed amongst the sheer granite cliffs and walls of the islands.
Of all these islands Jollybuoy is the most frequented. It lies towards the middle of the park. At the northern end is a sandy beach where the boats land and is circled by a reef which is exposed during low-tides.
Redskin Island is inhabited by the deer which were brought here by the British. Discovering that there were no endemic animals on the island, the British brought the spotted deer from the mainland. Approachable by boats that land in sandy coves on either side of the island,
Redskin has a large area with numerous caves along the northern cliffs. The interior is still quite densely wooded with mangrove stands along the eastern and southern creeks. Across the channel is Tarmugli which has an extensive coral reef on the south-western side and an idyllic diving cove at the extreme end of the reef. Nearby is Grub Island — a pictresque aptly named because of the channels weaving around and forming a maze are the home of one of India’s best marine parks. About 30 kilometres south-west of Port Blair, the Wandoor National Marine Park comprises about 12 islands lapped by gentle waters —a deep shade of blue bordering on black.

At the southern end of the park lie the Twins. Aptly named, the two peaks rise from the deep blue sea, separated by a thin strip of very clean and clear water.

Having absorbed the lay of the land it is time to discover the marine life. It begins right at the shore — the crystal clear waters lapping at your feet. Take a plunge into the deep and a whole new world unfolds through the diving mask. At fist sight everything appears to be a blue haze. Slowly it begins to unravel — the sand below, the coral heads, the fish — brightly coloured —green parrotfish, blue damsels, yellow butterfly fish, black surgeons, silver jacks etc. A never-ending parade of sea life.

The richness, the variety, the diversity of the life on the coral reef is amazing. Take the coral for example — a simple skeleton made up layer by layer by the minute coral polyp. It comes in all shapes, sizes and colours. Of the over 1000 existing species in the world, 135 are found in the Andamans region.
The coral reef itself is made up of solid limestone built over the ages through a process of sedimentation until a huge formation arises from the seabed. Boulders, walls, peaks, valleys, nooks and corners form the general topography. Brain coral, finger coral, antler coral are some of the varieties encountered. Plate coral, vase coral and leather coral are scattered over the reef in patches.
If examined closely it is possible to distinguish the individual coral polyps — some are as small as a few millimetres and others can be about a centimetre. Their centrally placed mouth is surrounded by their tentacles which serve to gather food. Though they might look insignificant, all corals, whether branching or spreading are the creation of these countless individuals working in harmony.

The corals derive their colour from an algae called xooanthellae living inside their flesh. This symbiotic relationship is characteristic of many other species on the reef. The algae helps in the formation of the hard limestone coral skeleton and in return it utilizes the coral’s metabolic wastes as nutrients.

One of the most interesting sights on the reef is the cleaner wrasse. This particular fish has evolved an innovative and specialized feeding behaviour. Its principal food consists of small parasites and to obtain them, it offers a cleaning service to other fish. Most fish have these pests clinging on to them. The cleaner wrasse advertisethemselves by colouration and a typical swimming behaviour or pattern. They hover around prominent landmarks and the patients line up for their service. The cleaner wrasse rids them of parasites, nips off damaged tissues and will even go as far as to enter the mouth to clean up teeth and the gills. Proceeding further along, one is likely to come across the giant clam. It is a spectacular sight with its luminescent mantle. Small ones are easily, spotted but the real three foot giant clams are said to exist only along the remote fringes of the park. Another curious sight is the big anemones and its clownfish that live in association forming one of the well known cases of symbiosis. The mobile clownfish cleans and feeds the fixed anemones, while the anemone offers shelter to the fish. The anemones can sting mildly and it is best not to touch them. There are five species of clownfish which occur in the park, some are found in three feet of water and easily observed by the snorkeller.

Of the other marvels of these islands is the mangrove. This hardy tree has its roots in sea water. Though the water might be too muddy to dive here, the life is quite rich. The leaves and other debris of the mangrove, form a very important source of food to the marine life. Like the reef this tree provides a natural buffer against storm waves.

Cruising along the waters is the best way to observe marine life. The Forest Department runs a launch service which visits two or three islands daily. More enterprising parties hire motorized canoes from local fishermen and head for the less frequented areas. It is essential to take along the fisherman as guide for safety. Some of them even hire out snorkelling equipment. Scuba gear is available from the Bay Islands Hotel —the usual practice requires the proof of scuba certification.