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Haven Resort Hua Hin Thailand

HUA HIN HAVENS THAILAND

Thailand’s first seaside resort now home to a plethora of spa retreats is more refined than other beach getaways, and a peaceful antidote to the hustle and bustle of Bangkok, three hours north.

The town of Hua Hin became fashionable in the 1920’s after the British pushed a railway north through the jungle, linking Kuala Lumpur and Bangkok. The rail line ran past this restful seaside town, making it an easy retreat for Bangkok’s elite, who built their holiday homes along Hua Hin’s shores.

The royal summer palace, Klai Kangwon (meaning “far from worry”) was built here, and Thailand’s royal family still spend much of their time in the town. (The heritage of Thailand’s revered King Bhumibol Adulyadej is everywhere and hundreds of royal-yellow flags flutter by the sides of roads.) Calmer than Thailand’s other beach resorts, Hua Hin is cashing in on its refined nature, reinventing itself as the Kingdom’s spa capital. Kick-starting this trend was Chiva-Som, which opened in 1995. Luxurious, but rigid, with a ban on mobile phones, no fat or salt in the food and a minimum three-day check-in, Chiva-Som became a favoured destination for celebrities. Meanwhile, perched over a silky smooth stretch of sand at Chaam, 15 minutes north of Hua Hin, the industrial chic–style Veranda Resort and Spa recently opened an all-pool wing, called Veranda Sky.

The brief given to this new edition is purely to pamper—something it achieves with distinction. Other resorts are going further, building facilities into rooms. At The Barai—a new private spa wing at the Hyatt Regency—guest rooms have not one, but four massage beds. There is also a steam room and an oversized bath. While promising temples of tranquility and peace, not all spas cut it. With some charging up to USD …. for a massage, the spa is becoming the latest cash cow for some establishments, and it seems every hotel worth its soap must have one. By recruiting therapists with little more than a two-week crash course in massage, the quality of treatments in some places is lacking—often, you’ll get a better massage on the beach for just USD ….

When, in 2001, the acclaimed spa group Six Senses opened the Evason Hua Hin resort and started to grow its own organic herbs and leafy vegetables, compost waste, recycle water, build with recycled timbers and redirect a percentage of room rates to local charities, it became the vanguard for responsible and ecologically friendly resorts. For its second take, Six Senses opened the Hideaway, with 55 pool villas, next door.

The villas line wooden pathways where staff zip up and down on bicycles. The area is dotted with lotus ponds, and birds swoop in and out of trees. Villas are hidden behind rammed-earth walls, making them pleasurably private. There’s not a hint of disposable plastic in sight—from water bottles to shampoo containers. Most villas come with facilities for spa treatments, but with one of the most stunning and unusual spas in Southeast Asia, there is no reason to stay in-room. The resort’s Earth Spa is housed in traditional “caves” built to replicate those found around villages in Northern Thailand.

Huddled around lotus ponds and verdant gardens, they are earthy and rustic. Walls are built using mud and rice husks—some up to 80 centimetres thick—keeping the caves cool, even when the temperature reaches 35 degrees outside. The spa only uses fresh vegetables and fruits in its products, believing that you shouldn’t put on your skin what you can’t eat (the most popular treatment is the honey, lime and cucumber facial).

I chose the Six Senses signature Sensory Journey—a two-hour treatment, including a steam bath, dry-skin brush and four-handed massage. Unlike lomilomi from Hawaii, or Ayurveda’s purva karma, both traditional four-handed massages, the Earth Spa’s wasn’t synchronised. Both therapists used different pressure and I found their movements confusing to follow, although it was a delight when one therapist massaged my face, while the other massaged my feet. At the Hideaway’s restaurant, the cuisine is unprocessed, organic and nutritious, using many ingredients from the Six Senses’ own garden. The goat’s cheese praline with walnuts, pistachio and raspberry puree, teamed with Atlantic snow fish Noise with a light truffle sauce and a glass of Margaret River organic white wine, is the perfect after-spa lunch.

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