Travel » The Pacific Coast

THE GRANDEUR OF THE PACIFIC COAST : BIG SUR

At Big Sur, the grandeur of the Pacific coast and the wooded ambience of the Santa Lucia mountains can be savoured at the same time.

Of the few places in and around San Francisco, the Big Sur draws a large drove of visitors all through the year. Historically speaking, the unexplored and Monterey has come to be called Big Sur. The Spaniards, the early settlers of this area along the rugged Santa Lucia mountain, called it El Pais Grande Del Sur or 'the big country of the south', and eventually it became Big Sur.

Located along the scenic highway about 150 miles south of San Francisco and 300 miles north of Los Angeles, Big Sur refers to the 90-mile stretch of stunningly beautiful coastline between Carmel in the north and San Simeon(Heart Castle) in the south. The majestic Santa Lucia mountains and the rocky Pacific coast flank this road.

For the weekend sight-seeing spree, we plumped for Big Sur, as the grandeur of the Pacific coast as well as the wooded ambience of the Santa Lucia mountains could be savoured at the same time. Having been based in Dublin, 40 miles south-east of San Francisco airport, we drove on the highway 1680 (South) and US 101S towards LA to reach Big Sur. US 101S takes a diversion at Monterey from where the hilly range commences and after that, it's all a climb.

This route takes a zig-zig course around the Santa Lucia mountains with breathtaking bridges like Rocky Creek bridge, Bixby bridge and Hurricane Point View on the upper slopes. The wind is chilly and all along, you see the turquoise blue waves of the Pacific Ocean dashing against the rocky protuberances. The horse-trail between Big Sur and Central California, which had a travel time of three to four days, blossomed into California Highway 1 in 1937 after a toil of 15 years involving a cost of US$9 million.

The abundant scenic beauty is an enthralling experience. Visitors can park their cars at certain turn-outs or shoulders and enjoy the scenery. In the turn-out adjoining Bixby bridge, you can go down the steps to the Pacific coast to play in the sea and sand. Highway 1 through Big Sur is a designated American National Scenic Highway, an honour reserved for distinctive highways so that they are destinations unto themselves.

Beyond Hurricane Point and pric: entering the Pfeiffer State Park are the An Molera State Park and the Point Sur Light Station, which acts as a sentinel for travellers The Andrew Molera State Park lies at a lower level than the road and a diversion road to the right leads on to this park. Its area is 5,000 acres and comprises mainly the Chaparral plain community. There are trekking trails here, too For instance, a mile-long trail takes to the Sand beach, which is sheltered by a large bluff to the north. Heading for Pfeiffer State Park, we saw, the Point Sur Light Station at a distance on the seaward brow of a large block of volcanic rock. This rugged promontory, regarded as a navigational hazard, is the only light station open to the public in California and has been part of the Big Sur coast for the last 100 years.

Our next stop was at Pfeiffer State Park. Built over 964 acres, it has been named after John Pfeiffer from whom the State of California bought it. All along the road, on both sides we noticed robust redwood (sequoia sempervirens) trees inside the park. Having paid the entrance fee at US Forest Department kiosk, we parked near a picnic spot and walked to the spot where the colonial tree (redwood) was located. With a circumference of 27 feet, they were more than a thousand years old. The oldest redwoods in the park are nearly 800 to 1,200 years old and are in the Proboscis grove near the Big Sur lodge. The dense redwood groves create their own microclimate bringing about favourable conditions of temperature and moisture.

Extending to 100 miles south of Monterey, the Santa Lucia mountains are home to almost 50 streams, out of which the Big Sur river is one. A beautiful landscape evolves in the area as all the rivers drain into the ocean.

Apart from the multifarious flora, the park has been endowed with wildlife. Deer, grey fox, bobcats, raccoons and reptiles like gopher snakes, alligator lizards and even king snakes can be sighted early in the morning and late in the evening. The Big Sur coast is also famous for the California condor, a giant bird.

Hikers and backpackers find solitude in Pfeiffer State Park with the natural landscape of the Santa Lucia mountains. The most sought-after trails are the Buzzard's Roost, Valley View, Nature, Pfeiffer Falls, Oak Grove and Big Sur River Gorge. At 5,682 feet, the Juniper Serra peak is the highest peak of Santa Lucia. All round the year, the climate here is cool and moist. The region receives an annual rain­fall of 30-50 inches between October and April. The banks move inland between May and October, especially along the coastal strip and in the Big Sur Valley, providing moisture for the dense redwood forest. The fog arrives in the evening and lasts until mid-morning. And that's Big Sur.