Destinations » Philippins

Ferocious storms make life on the Batanes Islands an exercise in survival but these wild, beautiful, isolated islands have a unique charm of their own

The Philippins is well known for great adverture destinations. But a set of sparsely inhabited islands that comprise the country’s north­ernmost province are so iso­lated that the biggest adventure is simply getting there. Seem­ingly lost in time, the Batanes Islands can only be visited by travellers during a couple of months of the year because fearful typhoons routinely wreak havoc on airline and shipping schedules.

These extreme me­teorological conditions have bred a hardy, down-to-earth, hospitable indigenous popula­tion — the Ivatans. Their tiny vil­lages reveal how a traditional community has evolved with lit­tle interference from the outside world. The Ivatans are skilled fishermen and boat-builders, and practise techniques passed down the centuries. For travel­lers looking to really get off the beaten track, these islands are a great destination — especially for hiking and photography. The Batanes Islands may be a world apart, but that’s the way the locals – and visitors – like it.

A life-or-death struggle is being played out. A small wooden boat, fragile amid turbulent waters, is attempting to traverse a narrow channel between two islands. The craft, briefly silhouetted against the threatening grey horizon, sud­denly plunges into a deep trough formed by towering waves. Moments later it reap pears, riding the crest of a huge breaker until it once again slides into the churning depths. Man is pitting himself against the unforgiving elements and the outcome looks uncertain. A real life or death situa­tion, surely. Yet, there is no sense of ur­gency or distress amongst the small group of people waiting on the windswept beach. They are locked in mundane conversation, sparing little more than the occasional glance for the storm-tossed boat.

When finally the vessel edges in to the shore and the passengers disembark there is no great display of emotion. They have a detached air, their expressions similar to those of people completing a long bus journey. Boredom and weariness can be detected, but not a hint of fear or relief. There is nothing special to remark on amongst inhabitants accustomed to the cruel whims of a harsh environment. Such a boat trip is routine in a land where the typhoon is king: it’s part of life on the Batanes Islands.