Travel » Pohnpei

ANT ATOLL

POHNPEI:
The big problem with diving in Pohnpei’s Ant Atoll is the decision: should the dive be outside the reef, where the clear water and immense can­yons hold the promise of schooling jacks and golden sea fans? Or should the dive be in the atoll’s one passage, where seemingly every type of creature from the tropical ocean gathers at the change of the tides? Decisions, decisions. Life is tough in Paradise. Ant Atoll, about a one-hour boat ride from the main island of Pohnpei, is one of the Pacific’s true gems, a classic atoll with the stereotypi­cal deserted sandy beaches, towering coconut trees and azure seas. The island is uninhabited, idyllic and naturally stun­ning. If the swells are down and the sea is right, the rarely dived southern tip is an almost irresistible option. Here, big Medusa-like coral heads sit on the edge of a sloping drop off swept by converging currents. The sea has cut huge crev­ices into the reef, and the diver has two (more!) choices: to drop down deep and look for pelagic life like dog tooth tuna and sharks; or explore the canyons. In these great clefts, giant sea fans tower over a wide variety of anemones, rare nudibranchs and unusual hard coral for­mations. The other great dive in Ant Atoll, in the single passage that runs from the open ocean through the reef and into the lagoon, is a Micronesian classic. Riding the incoming tide into the pass is a real rush, especially close to the full moon. The current can be very strong, and you’re guaranteed to fly past some amazing creatures. It can also be ridden in or out, though the incoming tide usually brings better visibility. Even so, the major excitement on this dive is waiting to see what creatures will show up in the pass unannounced. Expect fish of all kinds: manta rays come to visit the cleaner fish and feed in the current, eagle rays swim through looking for food on the sandy bottom, reef sharks cruise by, and, further in, a site famous for schooling barracuda holds many surprises. The coral here is varied, abundant and spectacular, spread out as though it was landscaped. Like a good novel, the Ant adventure combines beauty and mystery, a surefire combination for a unique day in Micronesia.

PALAU: Over the millenia in Palau, the rising and falling of sea and land levels and the erosive effects of sea water on limestone, have created unique saltua­ter lakes, cut off from the ocean but still containing marine species. In the closed environment of the saltwater lakes. these creatures have taken their own evolutionary path. Jellyfish Lake is the best known of Palau’s marine lakes. but, there are over 70 others in these islands, each with its own unique ecosystem and odd creatures. Snorkelling in any one 4 of them is like an immersion in a strange primordial past. Amongst the strangest marine lake denizens are jellyfish of the genus Mastigias, which, in their over the millennia have lost capability and need to sting. - they farm an algae called Zooxanthellae inside their bodies, and in symbiotic relationship live off the algae. Zooxanthellae, require sunlight so each day the jellyfish rise to the of the lake and follow the sun, algae which in turn feeds an unforgettable and unworldly experience to watch these strange, alien looking creatures rising to the light, coming together in ever greater numbers, and moving across the water in a salute to the life-giving power of the sun. Other species which have made their home in these lakes have adapted in other ways. One of the five species of gobi that live in the aptly named Gobi Lake reaches a lengh of 30cm and weighs over half a kilo - a veritable giant in gobi terms. Flatworm Lake is full of millions of marine flatworms. In Shrimp Lake, true to its name, you find millions of clear shrimp and stinging Cassiopea jellyfish. Cavern Lake has stinging sponges. Gi­ant sized Ketau Lake has full-grown reef sharks. A bizarre horned sea cucumber lives in Tee Lake. Each marine lake holds both beauty and mystery, and in the com­ing years even more unknown species will be found in them, making these lakes a lost frontier of marine evolution.