Home :: City Stopovers:: Mahabalipuram

Scattered around the base of a colossal mound of boulders, is the small seaside town of Mahabalipuram (aka Mamallapuram) , 58km south of Chennai. From the dawn till dusk, the rhythms of chisels chipping granite resound down it sandy lanes - evidence of a stone-carving tradition that has endured since this was a major port of the Pallava dynasty, between the 5th and 9th centuries. Little is known about the life in the ancient city, and it is only possible to speculate about the purpose of much of the boulder sculpture, which includes one of India's most photographed monuments, the Shore Temple.

History
The history of Mahabalipuram dates back to two thousand years, it contains nearly forty monuments of different types. Experts say that there were seven pagodas or temples on the shores of Mahabalipuram. All but one were pillaged by the rapacious sea, though there is little underwater evidence to substantiate their existence. Mahabalipuram was already a centre of pilgrimage when, in the 7th century Mamalla made it a seaport and began to make temples fashioned of rock. Most of the temples and rock carvings of this place were built during the reigns of Narsinha Varman I (AD 630-668) and Narsinha Varman II (AD 700-728).

What to see
Arjuna's Penance
Arjuna's Penance (also referred to as the "Descent of the Ganges") is one of the largest bas-relief in the world. Arjuna, one of the Pandava brothers and a consummate archer, is shown standing on one leg, looking at the midday sun through a prism formed by his hands, mediating on Shiva, which is depicting the penance of Arjuna to obtain the legendary arrow Pasupathastra from Lord Shiva.

Pancha Pandava Rathas
In a sandy compound 1.5km south of the village centre stands the stunning group of monoliths known as the Pancha Pandava rathas (the five chariots of the Panadavas). The "architecture" of the rathas reflects the variety of styles employed in temple building of the time, and stands almost as a model for subsequent development in the Dravida, or southern style.
* Visiting Time : Daily Sunrise - Sunset

Krishna Mandapam
Itis the world’s largest bas-relief with detailed carvings of gods, animals, insects, and birds. Arjuna’s Penance is a panel that shows the hero of the Mahabharata obtaining a prized divine weapon from Shiva. Stories out of the Indian version of Aesop’s Fables, the Panchatantra, are also carved on this rock. The eight rock-cut caves are carved with depictions of scenes from various legends.
Walk down to the old lighthouse on the way to Krishna’s Butterball, a huge rock that is precariously balanced on its tip on a sloping rock face. 5 km off are the carved Tiger Caves, which used to be an ancient open-air theatre.

The Shore Temple
East of the village, a distinctive silhouette above the crashing ocean, Mahabalipuram's Shore Temple dates from the early eighth century and is considered to be the earliest stone-built temple in south India. The design of its two finely carved towers was profoundly influential. It consists of two sanctuaries dedicated to Shiva

Varaha Cave
The Varaha Cave, a small rock-cut mandapam (hall), is a faceted and finished gem with two incarnations of Vishnu—Varaha (boar) and Vamana (dwarf). Particularly noteworthy here are four panels of the famous Pallava doorkeepers. One of four panels shows the boar-incarnation of Vishnu, who stands with one foot resting on the naga snake-king as he lifts a diminutive prithvi - the earth - from the primordial ocean.

Getaways
There are many Gateways around the town that are worth a ‘dekho’.
The marshy 30 hectares of Vedanthangal (53km)are a haven for migratory birds. November to February is when cormorants, pelicans, swans, the blue winged teal, herons, spoonbills, the white ibis, sandpipers, and darters flock here in droves.

Romulus Whittaker’s Crocodile Bank (14 km) keeps the croc crop up. Croc and alligator babies of six different species are hatched here before being returned to their natural habitat at sanctuaries across the country.

The silk and temple town ofKanchipuram is only 66 km from here. It attracts silk connoisseurs, temple buffs and the simply curious in droves.

Muttukadu has been 'developed’ into a picnic spot. It’s a centre for water sports and there’s a windsurfing competition on in Feb. There is a training programme for learners.

At Covelong (20 km) is a five star beach resort that serves up windsurfing, an ancient Catholic Church and the ruins of a fort.

Tirukkalukundram (Paksitirtha) means the “Hill of the Sacred Kite” (tiru—sacred, kaliki—kites, kundram—hill). It is 14km west of Mamallapuram, 60km southwest of Chennai, and 65km east of Kanchipuram. This place is famous because of two birds that have come here to eat almost every day for hundreds of years. Sri Chaitanya came here 500 years ago.

There is an interesting, large Vijayanagar temple dedicated to Lord Siva at the base of the hill with huge gopurams. There is a tank called Sangu-tirtha (sangu means conch) at the southeast end of the village. Every 12 years there is a Valampiri (right-turned) conch-shell found in it that is then displayed in the Siva temple in the village. To have possession of a right-turned conch-shell is considered good luck, and it is considered auspicious to just look at such a conch.

Dining Out

Sunrise Vegetarian Hut, 7 Otthavadai Street, the same streetthat the Rama Krishna Lodge is on, is a pure vegetarian restaurant. The idlis are good.

Sagar opposite the Government College of Architecture, has North Indian thalis during lunch and dinner.

La Vie en Rose nearby, has good French food.

Gazebo E Raja St, serves Indian and Chinese food. It is one of the best places in town.

Moonrakers Othavadai St, is a popular place with travelers. It has good food and a good sound system.

Mamalla Bhavan, by the bus stand on E Raja St, is a cheap veg thali place that also has good South Indian dishes. They make good masala dosas.

Mamalla Bhavan Annexe on the main street, has the very good Golden Pallate veg restaurant. They often have live classical Indian music outside in the courtyard in the evening. They serve Indian and Continental food. They have a good Dosa Platter and good ice cream. Recommended.

Pumpernickel Bakery, on top of the Uma Lodge, 15 Othavadai St, is part German and part Nepali managed. It has good cakes, breads, sandwiches, Chinese, and full meals. It is a laid-back, recommended place.

Tina Blue View has a pleasant atmosphere and food. It is on the balcony of the hotel and it has a good view of the sea and temple.
Curiosity Restaurant has good food and breakfasts.Silver Sands Hotel has a very good restaurant in a nice setting.

Ideal Beach Resort has a good restaurant serving Indian, Continental and Sri Lankan cuisine. It is located in a nice garden.

Shopping
Shopping in Mahabalipuram is a tremendous opportunity to collect memorabilia, souvenirs and gifts to take back home for friends and family. Shopping in Mahabalipuram comprises mainly of stone sculpture; idols of gods and goddesses on soapstone, granite and wood; jewelry and decorative items made of seashells; cane objects and woodcarvings. For Shopping in Mahabalipuram, Mount Road is the favorite place for the tourists followed by Poompuhar. The most reliable places for Shopping in Mahabalipuram are the emporia and government shops. They have fixed prices, products of trusted quality and above all no bargaining.

Visiting
The best time to visit this pleasant seaside temple town is between mid-Jan and mid-Feb. The weather’s great and more importantly, the annual Mammalapuram Dance Festival is on when the best performers of Bharatnatyam, Kuchipudi, Odissi and Kathakali perform on weekends through the month. The harvest festival of Pongal is also celebrated around then.

Tourist Offices
The Tourist Office (42232), north end of E Raja

How to get there

Air
Chennai is the nearest airport with both domestic and international terminus. Chennai is connected with all the major places in India through the numerous domestic flights. International flights operate from various parts of the world to Chennai.

Road
Buses are available from Pondicherry, Kanchipuram, Chengalpattu and Chennai to Mamallapuram daily. Tourists can also hire a taxi from Chennai.

Rail
The nearest railway stations are Chengalpattu and Chennai. From these stations one has to take road journey to reach Mamallapuram