Kolkata is India’s largest metropolis -- overcrowded, vibrant, volatile,
exciting and charming. It used to be said, What Bengal thinks today, India
will think tomorrow and of course what Bengal thinks today, Kolkata already
thought yesterday! The bastion of Bengali bhadralok, the city of the bespectacled
jhola slung intellectual is India’s cultural capital. Today’s Kolkata
is a little tired, overwhelmed by the burden of too many people and not enough
civic infrastructure. However it is the nerve centre of trade and industry
in eastern India, and the most important city in the region.
Look beyond the squalor and you will find that Kolkata retains
a certain something that is sepia tinted, elegant and charming. You will either
hate it or love it, but you can never be indifferent to Kolkata.
History
A mere tiny village in the 16th century, Calcutta jumped into the midst
of full blown history in the making when this eastern outpost became the hotbed
of action post 1772. This is when it became the capital of British India.
As would be expected, in order to help the British flourish in our country
railway tracks and telegraph lines were laid, soon industrial growth became
the most wanted element in Calcutta and cotton and jute mills were set up,
next came palatial residential premises to help the British settle down in
their new homes, the architecture thus having a distinct British touch to
it. Trams were brought in as a means of transport. Incidentally Melbourne
and Calcutta share the same century old technology.
Through the 1905 Partition of Bengal, the Bengal famine of 1943, the
partition of India in 1947 a lot of serious thinkers have emerged from
Kolkata. It’s created people with swadeshi and Gandhian Philosophy,
its fueled Marxists, naxalites and communists.
Post-Independence, the flood of refugees preceding the 1971 war between
India and Pakistan has severely strained the city’s infrastructure,
but it has brought some awesome food in the city. Post the 90s Kolkata has
been looking bright and alive with the significant growth in the IT and
manufacturing sectors.
What to see
Although
few people ever realize, Kolkata is a living museum of sorts. On the one
hand, the city is the seat of traditional Bengali culture and lifestyle
and on the other hand, it showcases the legacy of the British Raj. You can
take in the sights and sounds of the city in chunks and nibbles, depending
on the time in your hand and your interests. During winter, the local
tourism agencies conduct daily sightseeing tours. But most of the
attractions are very well-connected and one can easily chalk out a
customized itinerary.
Benoy-Badal-Dinesh Bag
The area around the huge Lal Dighi
(the Red Lake) has always been the hub of the administrative and business
activities in Kolkata. Although renamed as Benoy-Badal-Dinesh Bag (BBD
Bag), the place is still referred to by its old name of Dalhousie Square.
Fanning outwards from the Lal Dighi, you will come across a plethora of
old, European styled buildings, most dating back to the 19th century. The
Writers' Building continues to serve as the state's administrative
headquarter. The Raj Bhavan (the Governor's residence), the High Court,
the General Post Office, the Town Hall, the Police headquarters, the All
India Radio building, the playing fields of Eden Gardens, the Calcutta
Swimming Club are all within walking distance of each other. The
multi-media presentation and the walk-through galleries in the Town Hall
present a comprehensive history of the city (open 11 am to 6 pm, Tuesday
to Sunday).
Marble Palace
The extravagantly beautiful building that
Lord Minto referred to as the Marble Palace houses the personal antique
and other collections of Raja Rajendra Mullick. Built in 1830-35, the
palace contains exquisite artifacts and paintings belonging to the Roman
and Greek styles, clocks, furniture, etc.
Jorasanko Thakurbari
Built in 1832, this is the house where
India's Noble Laureate poet Rabindranath Tagore was born and lived the
greater part of his life. A university in his name occupies a large
portion of the building. The rest is preserved as a museum. A
light-and-sound show will take you back to the life and times of this
great family.
Kumartuli
A clay-modelers' colony in north Kolkata, this is
where human hands create the divine forms of goddess Durga and other
deities. It is a delight to watch the artisans at work as their nimble
fingers give shape to the beautiful images from mundane clay.
College Street & Hatibagan
Located in central Kolkata,
the importance of this long stretch of road is self-explanatory. The main
campus of the Calcutta University and the famous Presidency College are
about halfway down the street. Browse the collection in the second hand
bookshops that line the pavements.
Down College Street, you will come across an area called the Hatibagan
market. One of the oldest traditional markets in the city, you can buy
typical Bengal silk and cotton saris here.
Millenium Park
A landscaped promenade along the eastern
bank of the Hooghly river offers a fantastic view of the sunset across the
river. There are food kiosks and games facilities for children. Open on
all days, between 1 pm and 8.30 pm; last entry - 8 pm. In winter, private
operators run luxury boat cruises from here for a couple of hours
duration.
Shahid Minar
Built in 1828-30, this 52 meter high memorial was constructed in honor of
the British soldiers who defeated the Nepalese army and named after the troop's
leader, Sir David Ochterlony. Located off the Esplanade area (Dharamtola)
in the heart of the city, it was renamed as the Shahid Minar in 1969.
Victoria Memorial
The British answer to the Taj Mahal, the
foundation stone was laid in 1906 and the inauguration took place in 1921.
Built of Makrana marble (same as the Taj), this magnificent edifice,
settled in the middle of a vast garden is a museum showcasing the
memorabilia dating back to the colonial days. Except during the monsoon
period, a sound-and-light show is held here every evening. The English
narrative is held at 7.15 pm while the Bengali narrative is held at 7.45
pm. The Fountain of Joy (operated by the Calcutta Electric Supply
Corporation) located adjacent to the memorial is a nice place to visit
after sundown. Illuminated jets of water are spouted by the fountains
accompanied by music.
Eden Garden
In the 1840s, the sisters Emily and Fanny Eden
loved to take a stroll in this verdant corner built around a lake. The
wooden pagoda was brought from Burma (Myanmar) in 1856.
Botanical Gardens
Located on the western bank of the
Hooghly, this sprawling garden has collections from all over the world.
The more than 200 year old banyan tree is a big draw - its sprawling
canopy is believed to be the largest of its kind in the world. The garden
was founded in 1876 by Colonel Kyd as a pleasure retreat. This is also the
place where experiments on tea leaves brought from China took place before
being taken for plantation in Darjeeling.
Park Street
The best place to experience the color and
vibrant notes of the city. The various bars and restaurants offer a
delectable range of wine and food. The nightclubs and discos pulsate with
life till late night. On the other hand, Oxford and other bookshops
provide food for thought to the more seriously inclined. Russell Street,
off park Street, is home to some good restaurants, the headquarters of the
Calcutta Turf Club and the very Raj-styled Bengal Club.
Outram Ghat
A popular river-side promenade for an evening
out in summer or day-round in winter. Local country boats can be hired for
a journey till the mid-stream. The pizza and ice-cream outlet is a popular
draw with youngsters.
Academy of Fine Arts
If you are looking for an insight into
the contemporary art beat of the city, this is a must visit. There are
painting, sculpture and photography exhibitions round the year, especially
showcasing the works of young artists. The premises are a favorite haunt
of the intellectual brigade and young couples.
For a taste of new Indian cinema or a retrospective view of world
cinema, try Nandan located almost behind the Academy. The Rabindra Sadan
theater complex wedged between the two is the best place to check out the
musical scenario.
Birla Planetarium
Located adjacent to the St Paul's
Cathedral, the planetarium offers a good view of the Kolkata night sky.
Regular shows are held in English, Bengali and Hindi.
Netaji Bhavan
Opposite the popular Forum Mall on Elgin Road
is the family home of one of India's illustrious leader and freedom
fighter, Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose. The personal artifacts, letters and a
car used by him are now part of an extensive museum.
Zoological Garden
Located in the quiet Alipore area, this
is one of the oldest zoos of India, founded in 1876. There is an aquarium
opposite to the zoo.
Agri-Horticultural Society Garden
Founded by William Carey
in 1820. The flower exhibitions held between December and March are worth
visiting.
The Royal Calcutta Golf Club
The oldest golf club outside
the UK, it was established in 1829. Request for a temporary membership and
an opportunity to play across the greens; and immerse yourself in the
charm of the Raj days.
Swabhumi
Located on the eastern fringe of the city, this
heritage park cum shopping complex is a great way to spend a couple of
hours with family and friends. Located on the top of a small hillock, the
architecture is styled upon the building of old Kolkata. The meena bazaar
is a good place to look for handicrafts of rural Bengal - terracotta,
wooden toys, bamboo flutes and other musical instruments, etc - and
interact with the artists. Open: 12 pm to 10 pm from Monday to Friday and
10 am to 10 pm on weekends and holidays. Try pan-Indian cuisine at the
Food Court.
Nalban Boating Complex
A part of the East Calcutta
Wetlands, the Nalban boating complex comprises a huge lake with sprawling
lawns on one side. Also a venue for musical programs and entertainment.
Aquatica
The city's most popular water theme park is
located on the eastern suburbs. Has regular and exotic rides. Open daily,
from 1030 am to 6.30 pm. Different entry fees for children and adults, as
well as depending on weekdays and weekends.
Getaways
Chandannagore
Some 39 km from Kolkata is this former
French trading poston the banks of the River Ganga that was handed over to
India along with Pondicherry in 1951. Check out one of the oldest museums,
Chandannagore Museum and Institute, the Chandannagore Church and
Patal-bari or the Underground House, whose lowest floor is submerged in
the Ganges. Chandannagore is well-connected by train and rail and there
are some decent hotels offering boarding and lodging.
Digha
Just 185 km or 5 hours away from Kolkata, this is one
of the most popular beaches on the east coast. It is renowned for its
flat, hard golden sands and the beach is surrounded by fishing hamlets.
There is nothing to do here but look forward to long lazy days. Digha is
connected by road to Kolkata. Tourist cottages as well as some private
hotels offer accommodation.
Murshidabad
The last capital city of independent Bengal is
situated on the banks of the Ganges. One of its attractions is the Katra
Masjid, built in 1724 AD by Nawab Murshid Quli Khan. Murshidabad is 182 km
from Kolkata, a comfortable 3-hour drive. Tourist buses, both state-run
and private, are available. If staying overnight, the lodge at Berhampore,
11 km from Murshidabad, is the best option. And don’t forget to buy
the famous Murshidabadi silk on your way back!
Shantiniketan
You will need at least two days to do justice
to this famous little town. Known for the Visva Bharati University
established by Tagore in 1901, this is more than a quaint retreat where
you can sit back and admire the scenery. The university follows the
traditional gurukul system. Pristine green, with some beautiful
architecture, Visva Bharati is now a centre of international studies and
culture. Shantiniketan is about 215 km away from Kolkata. It is possible
to drive down in a cab or take a bus, but the train is more comfortable.
Shantiniketan Tourist Lodge offers accommodation.
Sunderbans
Try the thrilling cruise through the home of the Royal Bengal Tiger. The 54
islands together derive get their name from the graceful sundari (Heriteora
fomes) trees that grow all over the region. A UNESCO World Heritage Site,
this is world?s largest estuarine forest, and among the largest homes of the
Royal Bengal Tiger.
Sundarbans is 131 km away from the city, in the 24 Paraganas District of
West Bengal. To get there, take a bus or taxi to Sonakhali or Canning.
From here, you hire motor boats to take you into the forest. There are
accommodations available at Sajnekhali, Bakkhali and Piyali. For
information and corporate packages, write to West Bengal Tourism
Development Corporation, 1, Kiran Sankar Roy Rd. Kolkata - 700 001
Bishnupur
Some 200 km away from Kolkata, Bishnupur is
famous for the exquisite 17th and 18th century terracotta temples. The
stylised Bankura horse is native to this district. There is a snake
festival in August and the Bishnupur fair in December.
Bishnupur is
well connected by both train and bus. The best bet for staying is
Bishnupur Tourist Lodge, though cheaper options are also available, like
Tarama Lodge, Bharat Boarding House, and Lali Hotel.
Burdwan
Believed to have been named after the 24th Jain
tirthankara Burdaman Swamy, it is in the industrial heartland of
Asansol-Durgapur. Famed less for its ancient palace and more for its
distinctive sweets, no visit is complete without a generous taste of the
golden Mihidana and the flavoured Shitabhog.
There are trains connecting Kolkata to Burdwan. Burdwan by road is 128
km from Kolkata down Vidya Sagar Setu. Berhampore Tourist Lodge is the
best place to stay.
Darjeeling
Beneath the mighty snow-capped ranges of the
Himalayas, pleased with the balmy atmosphere that offered a much-needed
escape from the sweltering heat of the plains, the British created a
quaint English town that came to be known as the "Queen of the Hill
Stations" in India. Getting to Darjeeling by the Darjeeling Himalayan
Railway (popularly known as the Toy Train for its narrow gauge and small
powder blue coaches), one of the two railways with a UNESCO heritage tag,
is half the fun. Both the road and rail routes from the gateway town of
Siliguri go past acres of velvety tea gardens. Although the town has lost
much of its old charm, a trip to Darjeeling has now taken on the
proportions of a pilgrimage for most visitors. For a glimpse of the old
charming and laid-back lifestyle of the Raj days, stay a night at the
Windamere or the Elgin Hotel. You can combine a visit to Darjeeling with
trips to the nearby towns of Kurseong, Kalimpong and Mirik.
Dining Out
Eating out is great fun
in Kolkata. From roadside stalls to plush restaurants, you will be spoiled
for choice. Take a peek at the roadside vendor stalls along Camac Street,
park Street or the lanes and by-lanes of Esplanade and Dalhousie Square
during office lunch hour and you will be surprised by the mind-boggling
range of dishes (and the pocket-friendly prices) available, from
finger-foods to meals to sweet delicacies.
Nightlife
Exotic food, hip-swinging and mood music, and choicest liquors -
Kolkata is pulling out every stop to woo and win the young brigade.
Little High
Located on the eight floor of Fort Knox (on
Camac Street), this lounge bar is for the people who like to get cozy and
not rub elbows on a crowded floor. The bar holds a stock of extensive
range of malts, liqueurs, and wines. The restaurant serves Italian food
but only vegetarian. Timing: 6.30 p onwards.
Ego
Part of the Peerless Inn hotel (near Esplanade),
there's mood lighting and a dance floor. Take your pick from Cutty Sark
Scotch to Jose Cuervo tequila or from a wide selection of Chablis, Chianti
and Chardonnay. The food emphasizes on world cuisine and fusion style.
Timing: 11 am to 11.30 pm on weekdays; on Saturdays, you can continue till
2 pm.
Starstruck Sports Zone
Located in the Forum Mall (Elgin
Road), the sporty paraphernalia accentuates the mood. Multi-colored LEDs
and light panels illuminate the interior. The bar is heavy on imported and
Indian liquors, liqueurs, and wine. Cuban cigars and hookahs in five
flavors are also available. Finger foods and combo meals offer Indian,
Oriental and Continental varieties. Timing: noon to midnight.
Cubes
The lounge is located just above the restaurant (209
AJC Bose Road) and offers basic cocktails, liqueurs and wine. The kebab
platters and Chicken Tostadas are popular choice from its long list of
Indian, continental and Chinese fare. Timing: 12 pm to 11 pm.
Marrakesh
Popular with the corporate crowd (located at the
crossing of Park Street and Camac Street), it has an extensive range and
some excellent cocktails. Timing: 6 pm to 12 pm.
Tantra
This hangout frequented by young trendy Kolkatans is
located inside the Park Hotel (Park Street). Late-night fashion shows,
varied events and celebrity guests, popular DJs and the Bodhi Bar are the
biggest draws.
Someplace Else
The ambience and decor will take you back to
the Brit-style pubs. Part of The Park.
Dublin
Mull on cognacs, single malts, flavored vodkas and
cigars as you listen to a medley of Indi-pop, hip-hop, rock, retro and
rhythm-blues in Dublin run by ITC Sonar Bangla.
Incognito
Part of Taj Bengal (Alipore), it has good music,
live bands and events galore to keep you entertained.
Big Ben
Part of The Kenilworth, it has good music, often
with live bands. Cocktails and food recommended.
Shisha
The lounge bar (22 Camac Street) that took the city
by storm with its unique hookah bar. Funky music, and a selection of
scotch and cigars are other attractions.
Shopping
If there are people who know how to lead a decadent life, they live in
Kolkata, what with the chai baggan (tea garden) culture having come to a
few homes in the city. The city offers just about everything from metal
works, to pottery, to smoked outfits for kids, to auction houses where you
can buy decent stuff at a bargain, to the famed Bankura horses, Dhokra
metal craft, and exquisite textiles
» The Crawford market of Kolkatta is the Burra
bazzar where you can buy any kind of embellishment for your home or your
clothes, it all comes at wholesale rates.
»
Another interesting market is the New market previously called the
S S Hogg market. This is one of the fastest moving two floored markets
that stocks everything from clothes to jewellery to shoes to the works.
Most banks have their ATM's close to this market. In this market also lies
one of the oldest and famous bakeries called Nahoums.
»
If you were to walk towards the market from the main roads. You’d
pass three movie halls -- lighthouse, new empire, globe hard to
believe but true- these places still house wooden flooring on of their
floors. And this is where in the old times, balls were held. Yeah, you’ve
got to see it for old world charm to sink in.
»
And for the mall feel, the best effects are at city centre in Salt
lake, like any other mall it has it all here from a Fab India to a
stationary store to homes decor to cosmetics, a lot of food and my
favoruite Cookie jar where the death by chocolate is, well, to die for!
» For Tangail and Baluchari silks as well as fine
cotton textiles, try RMCA Basak (48 Nandi Street); Kundahar (10
Sarat Banerjee Road); Meera Bose (8 Dr Sarat Bose Road); Toontooni
(10 Satyen Datta Road). For exclusive top-of-the-line silks in classic
prints head to Ananda, at 13 Russell Street.
»
Bentinck Street has many Chinese shoe shops offering good
value for money. Morrison & Cottle at the corner of
Chowringhee and Park streets is one of the city’s oldest shoemakers.
It still fashions made-to-order shoes at reasonable prices.
»
Antiques and period-style furniture can be bought at Saroj
(3A Camac Street) and Nu-Bilt (57, Park Street). Doing the rounds
of Sunday auctions at Chowringhee Sales and Victor Brothers
on Park Street, and Russell Exchange and Dalhousie
Exchange on Russell Street may lead to the unearthing of interesting
curios and furniture.
» Gariahat
Market, Vardaan Market on Camac Street, AC Market on
Shakespeare Sarani and Satyanarayan Market, off Mahatma Gandhi Road, are
some of the more busy shopping districts.
Visiting
The best time to visit Kolkata is
between October and March when you will conveniently miss the sweaty,
humid and suffocating Bengal summer. You will also be in time for the
frenzied celebrations of Durga Puja the worship of the goddess of
strength, symbolising good over evil. It is a ten-day ritual held in the
month of October.
Tourist Offices
There is a Government of India tourist office at 4 Shakespeare Sarani, a
West Bengal tourist office at 3/2 BBD Bagh besides their counters at the
airport and the railway station where information is available.
How to get there
Air
Kolkata has an
International Airport that has regular flights to Europe, the United
States of America and the Orient.
Major cities in India are connected to Kolkata by domestic flights. The
Dum Dum Airport is only 17 km away from the city centre. There are taxis,
airport buses and public minibuses to get you to the city centre from the
airport. The best way to get into the city is to take a prepaid taxi to
your destination in town, or to have a rented car meet you at the airport.
Road
It is possible to get to Kolkata by road. One can
drive or take a bus from anywhere to Kolkata, be it Delhi, Bombay or
Guwahati. Gas stations dot the routes and there are numerous options for
eating and resting along the way. Distances are however great and it is
better if one opts the rails or the skies.
Train
Howrah on the west of Hooghly River and Sealdah to
the east of the river are the two rail stations and both are very crowded
and frenetic with activity. All trains to India’s north-eastern
region originate and end at Sealdah and trains to west, central and south
India operate from Howrah. One needs to be careful against pickpockets at
the stations. Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai, Bangalore, Guwahati, Dibrugarh,
Nagpur, Bhubaneswar, Hyderabad and other major Indian cities are connected
with Kolkata.
Sea
It is possible to get to Kolkata by ship from Port
Blair in the Anadaman and Nicobar Islands, Vishakhapatnam and Chennai.
