Tamil Nadu, known for its temples, silk sarees, Kollywood and spicy cuisine is one of the largest and the southern most states of India. Home to Carnatic music and Bharathanatyam - the state prides itself on its cultural history and distinct language Tamizh, which is said to be as old as Sanskrit. A vast coastline in the east and the Nilgiri hill ranges in the west - the state have a variety of geographical locales to be experienced. The city was known as 'Madras' till 1996 when it was renamed Chennai in keeping with the nationwide policy of going back to indigenous names as opposed to colonial ones.

History
Chennai was once a small fishing village called Chennaipattinam. There are enough evidence to establish that this small town used to engage in foreign trade with the Chinese, the Greeks, the Phoenicians, the Roman and the Babylonians. Much, much later in AD 58, St. Thomas the Apostle came here to spread the teachings of Jesus, bringing in Christianity to India.

The city saw a host of changing rulers from time to time, the mighty Pallavas (for about 600 years since 4th century) Cholas (from Sangam era till the 13th century), Cheras (from Sangam era - 15th century) Pandyas (from Sangam era till the 15th century) and Vijayanagar rayas (from approx. 1336-1660). The British came only in 1639 and set on the move a process of urbanization and development, which changed the face of this town.

The Raja of Chandragiri, (the last Vijayanagara king), who ruled this town then, leased out a portion of the territory to the English East India Company for a period of two years. He also gave them permission to build a fort here, the Fort St. George, now, a landmark in the city. Trade grew. So did the area under the Company. In 1688, James II of England granted the town a municipal charter, making it one of the earliest municipal corporations in India.

After the French was routed in the Carnatic Wars, Madras Presidency, as Madras and the territories in its vicinity came to be known under the British, emerged as an important military base. The Madras Regiment, which later became known as the Dublin Fusiliers, is till date the oldest regiment of the Indian army.

What to see
Marina Beach
If you want to escape the heat, hurry to Marina Beach, one of the longest beaches in the world. And also the most crowded all year through. What makes it special is a promenade created by Governor Grant-Duff, who gave Marina its name in 1884. A series of statues line the promenade. Also visit the memorial built for the former Chief Minister of Tamil Nadu, C.N. Annadurai on the beachside; this has a striking arch that has been built based on modern architecture. Summer brings extra life to the Marina. The waters look appealingly blue and inviting. The kite season, the raw and ripe mango sellers, masala papads- it is a hub of activity. A trip to the beach would be incomplete if you don’t dig into the yummy typical Madrasy Sundal. You do not have to go looking for them. They come searching for you. The street hawkers, usually a young chap may runs up to you and tug at your shirt and say ‘saar, sundal’. Indulge; it is a taste that sure will linger in your memory.

Elliot’s Beach
Elliot's Beach is a popular hangout for the young and the old alike. Also called the Besant Nagar Beach, this is relatively neater than Marina. There are rows of trendy casual clothes shops and fast food joints along the shoreline where you can stop for a snack.

Government Museum
The first government museum in the country, it showcases Tamil Nadu's history and culture, while the building itself is reminiscent of the Raj era. Located at Pantheon Rd, Egmore, It is open on all days except Fridays and national holidays. Look up www.chennaimuseum.org for more facts and what to see.

The National Art Gallery
adjacent to the Museum is a place worth the visit. You will be captivated by the splendour of 10th century bronze and panchaloka statuettes that depict Nataraja (Lord of Dance). Paintings by Raja Ravi Verma are among other attractions. Timings: 8 A.M to 5 P.M. Closed on Fridays.

Dakshinachitra
is a real life heritage museum. An excellent place to spend at least half a day. Set up about 21 kms from Chennai on the East Coast Road (ECR) it shows cases the life in a traditional South Indian village. Exact replicas of South Indian houses as they were in times of yore, preserving the original lifestyle of different communities enhance the beauty of the sylvan settings. On display is a mind-boggling range of artifacts, capturing the South Indian classical tradition. You can take a stroll along the ancient village by-lanes and peep into the homes of artisans, farmers and merchants of the age-past. What makes the place unique is that you can stop for a friendly chat with the artists, recreating the magic of yesteryears or try matching step to the music of the folk musicians. Do not miss their puppet shows and the pottery section where you can try your hand at making pots! Timing: 10 am to 6 pm. Closed on Tuesdays.

Birla Planetarium
Funded by and set up in the memory of industrialist B.M. Birla, the planetarium is open from 10 am to 5.45 pm, on all days except Mondays.

Periyar Science and Technology
Centre Adjacent to the planetarium, the Centre explains scientific principles through working models. It is open 10 am to 5.45 pm; Mondays are holidays.

Theosophical Society Founded by H.P. Blavatsky in 1875, the Theosophical Society in Adyar is especially well known now for its library called, The Adyar Library and Research Centre, housing rare and important texts relevant to Oriental studies. It contains over 250,000 printed volumes and nearly 20,000 palm-leaf manuscripts from India, Sri Lanka, China, and other places, a few of which are kept on display for visitors. The printed books include rare indological publications in several languages and a fine collection of works on different religions, philosophies and cultures. They also allow camping.

Connemara Public Library
Founded in 1890, this library in Egmore is well known for its exquisite Indo-Saracenic architecture. Declared as a UNESCO Information Centre in 1965, the library has a large number of books and journals, including rare ones such as a 1608 publication of The Bible and an 1801 edition of Plutarch's 'Lives'. Also 19th century Tamil, Telegu, Malayalam and Kannada manuscripts have been meticulously conserved here for scholars to refer. (Open from 9 am-6 pm everyday). Visit www.connemarapubliclibrarychennai.com for more details.

Guindy Snake Park
The Guindy Snake Park about one km from the Guindy station has lizards, crocodiles and turtles on display. It is a neat place, ideal for a stroll with generous enclosures. Information boards demystify reptiles for the ordinary visitor. The parks are open daily, except Tuesday from 8.30 am to 5 pm.

Vandalur Zoo Located at 28km from Chennai proper in Vandalur, the Anna Zoological Park is easily accessible from Tambaram West. Hailed to be the biggest in South Asia, this zoo spreads over 1265 acres and is building up a collection of tropical mammals, birds and reptiles amongst others. The enclosures for the animals are located in natural surroundings with the vast areas for the animals to move freely. It is also functioning as a captive breeding center for endangered wildlife species. You can take the battery car-train as it is a huge place to walk around and see everything, unless you want to do things at your own pace. For lunch or a snack there is a food joint right opposite the zoo entrance.

Fort St. George
Built in 1640 AD by the British East India Company, this bastion got its name from St. George, the patron saint of England. The fort at the beginning of the beach road, on Marina beach, currently accommodates the secretariat and the legislative assembly of Tamil Nadu. The oldest British tombstones in India are to be found in its courtyard. The Fort Museum has a rare collection of memorabilia from the Raj era. The banquet hall upstairs was built in 1802 and has paintings of Fort St. George's governors and officials of the British regime. South of the Fort is the War Memorial, which honours those who laid down their lives for their country since the First World War. You could also see Robert Clive's House adjacent to the fort.

Arts Centre Kalakshetra
Founded by Rukmini Devi Arundale in 1936 the institution is devoted to the revival of traditional dance, textile designing, and weaving. The institution runs a gurukul-like center for the learning of the traditional arts, including Bharatanatyam and Carnatic music, and hosts cultural events from time to time.

Cholamandalam
About 10 km from Thiruvanmiyur, this is an idyllic artisan’s colony where you can watch painters, potters, weavers and dyers at work. Set up by the principal and a bunch of students at the Madras School of Arts and Craft, 40 years ago, this village is a much-preferred getaway for the aesthetically inclined. Contact Government of India Tourist Office, 154, Anna Salai, for details.

Getaways
Mahabalipuram
Breathtaking rock-cut temples, sculptures, and a roaring sea, Mahabs, as Chennaiites call it, is 58 km from Chennai. It is an ancient seaport on the shores of the Bay of Bengal, built by the Pallava King Narasimhavarman 1, way back in the 7th Century AD. Do look out for:
- Arjuna's Penance - relief sculpture on a massive scale extolling stories from Hindu mythology.
- The pancha rathas (five chariots)
- The Shore Temple - a structural temple along the Bay of Bengal with the entrance from the Western side away from the sea, is a favourite shopping haunt for South Indian artifacts, both wooden and granite based.
If you are visiting Mahabalipuram make sure to set out early in the morning so that you reach there by 7am. The scorching sun would otherwise leave you too tired to see around.

Vedanthangal
This is one of India’s most spectacular bird sanctuaries and is located about 85 kms south west of Chennai. It is a marshy 30-hectare park around a lake, which is visited by many species of migratory birds between December and February, when the lake is flooded. These birds generally leave during the dry season - post April for wetter regions. Early mornings and evenings when the birds return after the days feed are the best time to watch them from the path on the waters edge or from a watchtower. Binoculars and a good book on birds will be handy.

Yercaud
An overnight journey on the Yercaud Express from Chennai takes you to Salem, which connects to Yercaud (32 kms away), a quite hill station on the Servaroyar Hills. Mild temperate climate throughout the year, considerably cooler than the plains makes it a choice location for tourists from all over Tamil Nadu. It has many scenic views and is perfect for long walks. The Yercaud Lake, one of its main sight seeing spots, has water rides and boating facilities. The hill town should be avoided during summer when it is crammed with tourists making it no different from the cities that they are trying to get away from. Taxis and auto rickshaws are available to move around the town.

Muttukadu
Some 36 km from Chennai, on the ECR, is this idyllic backwater retreat. You can try your hand at oarsmanship here.

Crocodile Bank
A 44-km drive from Chennai, the croc bank has over 3,000 gharials, crocodiles and lizards.

Pondicherry
Some 170 km from Chennai is the former French colony of Pondicherry. Temples, churches, Aurobindo's Ashram, Auroville, and the rocky beach, there is plenty to see and do in Pondicherry. Visit www.auroville.org for more on Auroville in Pondy, which is a main attraction for tourists here.

Tirupati
The famous abode of Lord Balaji, known by its seven hills, is about 152 km from Chennai and a favourite religious destination with the city dwellers.

Dining Out
Chennai is a food lover’s delight. 'Tiffin' and 'meals' dominate the local restaurants. 'Tiffin' is anything between a snack and a light meal that includes various rice and flour preparations served best with piping hot Madras filter coffee. 'Meals' is what lunch is about in most local restaurants - it is what is called a 'thali' or a serving of various vegetables, rice and curry preparations that make up a traditional meal, served best on a plantain leaf.

Tiffin
The Saravana Bhavan, Woodlands and Sangeeta chain of hotels, with branches throughout the city, are the places to try these out. Murugan Idly Shop on G.N.Chetty Road, T Nagar is famous for its tiffin preparations. Most of these establishments serve food from 7.30am onwards.

Chettinad
The spicy local Chettinad cuisine is also a must-try when you are in Chennai, especially if you like exotic meat preparations. Kaaraikudi on Dr. Radhakrishnan Salai is one of the best places to relish Chettinad food. The décor of the restaurant with its teak pillars and decorative tiles, the steel cutlery all add to the Chettinad magic. The place does offer vegetarian items but the specialties are its chest bone soup, turkey briyani, the shark meat preparation- suraputtu, rabbit chukka, roast pigeon and masala crab fry.

Seafood
Chennai being on the seacoast has its share of seafood joints. The Coastline on Dr. Radhakrishnan Salai is known for its exotic nandu resan (crab), squid masala, masala fried nethili and veral fish curry preparations.

Though when in Chennai, one must savour the essential idli-dosa-appams and Chettinad preparations, the culinary tour of the city does not end here. The city offers a range of quality restaurants and fine dining places that serve other Indian and international cuisine.

The Dhaba
on Dr. Radhakrishnan Salai, with its hand plastered walls, lanterns and table fans is the closest one can come to experiencing the North Indian roadside Dhaba and feasting on a good tandoori meal.

Kabul
on TTK Road specialises in delicacies from the North West Frontier region. Try their Raan Peshawari, Dal Kabul Special, Chicken Afghani stuffed and round it of with rich rabadi malai. Coconout Lagoon on Cathedral Road serves food from the western coastal regions of

Nightlife
Leather Bar
This lounge bar at The Park on Anna Salai is an ode to Chennai’s leather connection. As the name suggests the leather furbishing of the interior is immaculate and adds to the richness and exclusivity of the place. The DJ in his private console and the skilled bartenders do their bit to add to the milieu. You can also chill out on the breezy terrace on pleasant evenings.

The Pasha
Also at The Park on Anna Salai, is an exclusive members only club that caters to the who’s - who of Chennai (Non members are allowed at the discretion of the management). The Pasha is done up with mirrored walls, fuchsia drapes, silks and sequins to create an ethereal palace. The giant eagle suspended from the ceiling seems to keep a watchful eye on the happenings of the club. The Chettinad Terrace with its fabric canopies on another level is the perfect space for private parties.

Bike & Barrel
The Restobar at The Residency Towers, T Nagar is where Chennai likes best to unwind after a day at work. Great music and reasonably priced food and beverages make it a favourite destination and the place is always packed.

Zaras
It is the perfect place to grab a bite with your drink. Modeled after the Spanish Tapas bars, Zaras, on Radhakrishnan Salai, boasts of a skilled bartender from Barcelona and also a DJ and sometimes live bands from around the world.

Dublin
If you are looking at good place with a dance floor and a high-energy crowd, Dublin at ITC Park Sheraton is the place to go. Its two bars with rocking music and dance lights are where Chennaities like to let their hair down and party into the night.

Flame Le Club
The Disco destination of Chennai, at the Le Royal Meridien close to the airport is spread over 9000 sq. ft. and moves to 17,000 watts of pure music. Entry to the club is Rs. 500 per couple and Wednesdays is Ladies nite – free entry and a complimentary beer. The club is closed on Tuesdays

Shopping
Shopping has in the recent years become a favorite pass time for Chennaites and the mushrooming malls and shopping complexes have changed the way one shopped in the city.

Traditionally a hub for silk sarees, the city now stocks designer wear and international brands that disappear off the racks as quickly as the silk sarees did.

Gold is sacred to the South Indians, who buy it on occasions and for investment. The city houses some of the best jewelers in the country who cater to traditional and cosmopolitan crowd.

Leather is one of the chief exports of the city and the export surplus finds its way to the city stores where you can get premium products at throwaway prices.

A round of the city’s shopping centers and areas should start with SpencersPlaza, the air-conditioned mall on Mount Road that houses more than 400 shops. It caters to all essential needs and has an assortment of branded stores and smaller shops and outlets selling handicrafts, leather items, clothes etc. Of the bigger names in Spencers are Nike, Landmark - Chennai's premium bookstore, Musicworld, Foodworld - a chain of grocery stores, etc and also an assortment of cafes if you get hungry exploring the mall.

In nearby Egmore are also some smaller malls - PrincePlaza and FountainPlaza. They are worth looking at if you are in the area.

Anna Salai or Mount Road is the old shopping district of Chennai and houses the Central Cottage Industries Emporium, Khadi Gramodyag Bhavan, Poompuhar Victoris Technical Institute and also various state handicraft emporiums.

Numgambakkam is where the hip and happening Chennai does its shopping. The entire road is lined with an assortment of shops ranging from branded stores to cafes. Nike, Reebok, Benetton, Mexx, all have showrooms on this road. Also down the road are various designer saree showrooms - do check out Man Mandir for exclusive hand worked sarees and dress materials. The Ispahani Centre is a popular shopping mall on Numgambakkam High Road and a hangout place for the young college crowd. Its Cafe coffee Day and Marry Brown cafes are popular crowd pullers. The complex also houses Swarovski, Hidesign - a premium leather showroom, stationery from Archies, Dockers etc. The nearby Chhotabhai Centre stocks Excalibur, Wrangler and Proline brands of clothing.

PanagalPark - Chennais most famous shopping district and known all over the state is the place to go if you are looking for sarees, silks, non-branded clothing, electronic goods, and sweet meats. On Usman Road in this area are Nalli Chinnasami Chetty, Sri KumaranStores, and Pothys - all known for their exquisite silk sarees and dress materials collections. Sri Kumaran Creations is a multi-storied building, which stocks readymade clothes and branded wear for the entire family. Also in this area is the famous G R Thanga Maaligai, one of Tamil Nadu's leading jewellers. They have exclusive collections in gold, platinum, diamonds and precious stones in their multi- storied showroom. Other jewellery showrooms in this area, which will dazzle you with equal brilliance, are VBC, Lalitha Jewellers, Prince Jewellery, Khazana and TB Jewellers.

Near PanagalPark is Pondy Bazaar - the place to go if you are looking for stainless steel items, house hold goods and imitation jewellery. There are also several readymade clothing stores that stock latest designs and styles. Viveks and Vasanth & Co are the electronic goods giants in the area.

Ratna Stores in this area is said to be India's largest stainless steel store that stocks everything from spoons to large trunks. The store has now grown into a full fledged department store that also stocks clothing, electronics, and household items all under one roof.

If you are looking for pickles, appalams, South Indian snacks and masalas head to Grand Sweets and Snacks in Adyar, Surya Sweets in Raja Annamalai Puram, or Ambika Appalam Depot in Mylapore.

The area around MylaporeTemple is also worth a visit to buy temple jewellery and other Bharathanatyam dance related items. Sukra, D.K.Murthy and Radha Gold stock some exquisite traditional designs in temple jewellery. Also in the area is Radha Silk Emporium or RASI, which stocks some exclusive Kanjeevaram, Banarsi, tussar and other varieties of silks. Parry's Corner - the city's wholesale hub is where you can look for imported goods, clothes and toys.

Visiting
Chennai may stretch along 17 km of coastline but it also lies between the Tropic of Cancer and the Equator. Days in the hot months of April, May, and June will be very, very hot. Travel in July-September and January-March to beat the heat, the rains (October-December) and in time to catch the festivals of Pongal (January), classical Carnatic music and Bharatnatyam (January), and perhaps Dussehra (September).

How to get there
Air Chennai has an international airport at Meenambakkam with flight connections to the US, UK, Singapore, Sri Lanka, Malaysia and the Middle Eastern states. Domestic airlines connect Chennai with Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, Trivandrum, Bangalore and Cochin.

Rail Chennai’s three stations Central, Egmore and Tambaram connect the city to all metros and to leading towns and cities in southern India. There are daily trains to Bangalore, Tirupati, Trivandrum, Hyderabad, and Cochin.

Road Chennai is a gateway to south India and is well connected to the rest of the country by road. There are regular buses to Bangalore (331kms), Madurai (445kms), and Tirupati (152kms).

Sea There is a sea line to the Andaman and Nicobar islands. Cruise liners too operate out of here. The harbour is in George Town, north of the Fort. Contact the Chennai Port Trust (Ph.25362501; Rajaji Salai) for more information.