Trivandrum

Trivandrum

Though many travellers head straight for Kovalam, 13 km (8 miles) away, there are several good reasons for making Trivandrum the starting point of your Kerala tour. This is the state capital, and has been so from the days of the old princely families. Yet, having retained much of the stately, unhurried broad-avenued ambience of that regal era, it doesn’t look or feel like a state capital at all. It is, perhaps even more than Cochin, the home of Kathakali dance, of the Kalarippayat martial art, of yoga therapy, and of ayurvedic massage. Many travellers stay in Trivandrum for weeks on end studying one or other of these ancient arts and sciences. There are some interesting sights which, even if you only come into the city for the day from Kovalam, make a pleasant change from the beach.Trivandrum is a busy, friendly seaside city built on seven hills, many of its buildings overlooking peaceful valleys. It derives its name from TH(hoimru-eA onfa nththea sPeurrpament), and is believed to be the home of Anantha, sacred snake on which Vishnu reclines. Trivandrum is also known as the City of the Sacred Geese.RR1VAL/DEPARTURE

Air
From Trivandrum airport (6 km/3 3/4 miles from city centre, Rsl by No. 14 local bus) there are daily flights to and from Bombay (1C168 , Rs 2362), Cochin (1C468, Rs525), Delhi (1C468, Rs 3757), and Goa (1C468 , Rs1313). Also less frequent flights to Bangalore (1C530, Rs1192), Hyderabad (1C516 , Rs2043), and Madras (1C530 , Rs1250).Trivandrum is also an international airport with Air India flights to cities in the Gulf including Dubai and Muscat. Some of these flights continue to Europe and New York. Indian Airlines operates flights to Male in the Maldives and Colombo in Sri lanka. Air Lanka also operates to and from Colombo. Gulf Air operates from and to Abu Dhabi, Bahrain, Doha and Muscat with onward connections to Europe.

Rail
From Trivandrum rail station (opposite the bus-station), there are a number of trains daily to Ernakulam (Cochin), via Quilon. The fastest train is the 6.15 am Pareswarurn Day Express, which gets to Quilon (70 km; 3 3/4 miles) in 1 1 hours, and to Ernakulam in just 3 hours. It’s a wonderfully scenic ride, cutting right through the eight creeks of Ashtamudi Lake. Best of all, you don’t even need an advance-reservation: just hop on, and pay for your 2nd-class air-conditioned seat on the train.

The best train for Goa leaves Trivandrum at 11 pm, arriving in Mangalore 10 am next morning. Proceed immediately by auto-rickshaw to Mangalore’s government (not private) bus-stand, in order to catch the 11 am express bus (10 hours) to Partjim . Don’t miss this early bus as the next one bound for Goa is in the evening.

Road
Trivandrum has two bus-stands. Buses for Kovalam leave from the Fort bus-stand. Buses for all other destinations leave from the city bus-stand, opposite the rail station. Points covered include Madurai (many buses from 4.30-10 am, from 5-11 pm; 7 hours), Kanyakumari (9 am, 3 pm, and 10.15 pm; 2 1/2 hours), Coirnbatore (6.30 pm; 12 hours), Madras (12.30 pm and 7 pm; 17 hours) and Kumily (8 hours). For all these long-haul destinations, you’ll have to advance-book tickets: a real pain, in view of the awesome queues. Try to find a boy to queue up for you for Rs3-4 while you go sightseeing.

Fortunately, there’s normally no need for advance reservation on the hourly, from 5 am-midnight buses to Ernakulam (4 hours), via Quilon (2 hours) and Alleppey (3 hours). Just toss your bags in the window, and pay on the bus.

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