It is still possible to recapture the magic, majesty and magnificence of pre-Independence India—to laze indolently by luxury swimming-pools, to sip hot toddies on verandahs of colonial bungalows, to enjoy a relaxing round of golf or tennis before ‘tiffin’ (lunch), to go fishing and have your catch brought in for you, to gain entry to privileged clubs and societies, generally to have your every whim and wish catered for, even anticipated. India really knows how to pamper and cosset her rich foreign guests. When you need them, there are chauffeurs, guides, porters, bearers, dolis (sedan-chair carriers), punkah-wallahs (to cool your fevered brow), waiters, personal servants, massage-men, ‘khansamahs’ (cooks), and hopeful shoe-shine boys. It’s a totally different side of India from that normally seen by the budget traveller. Your hotel will take care of all your travel arrangements, arrange your sightseeing, confirm your flights, provide you with a packed lunch, cater for your guests, introduce you to the right people, arrange for sports and cultural entertainments, and make introductions for you.
The social life of the wealthy Indian is much the same as that of his counterpart in Europe and America. If anything, even more so. Dress, manners and general etiquette matter, and in the big cities the nightlife is a whirlwind of social engagements introductions, club activities, luncheons and supper parties. The food often doesn’t arrive till after midnight. Before this, it’s whisky all round (bottles of it) on empty stomachs. You will be expected to be widely informed on all matters political and economical, and to have strong opinions. Do not be upset by blunt, forthright questioning. To earn respect, you’ll have to give as good as you get—and stay sober.
