Living in Bombay is very expensive, and good rooms are hard to come by. With housing such a problem, decent hotels are often fully booked, and the few habitable budget lodges packed out. In the former instance, make advance reservations; in the latter, arrive very early in the morning to snap up any rooms going. The most difficult time is the January /February high season. Prices listed below do not include tax.
Luxury (US$100-250 per room night)
The top hotels are all central. More an institution than a hotel is the Taj Mahal, with its new addition the Taj Mahal Intercontinental, Apollo Bunder (tel 2023366, cable PALACE, telex 11-82442, 
83837 TAJB IN, fax 022-2872711). The old building is one of Bombay’s major landmarks: opened in 1903 and accorded (with its new skyscraper relative) the accolade of being one of the world’s 12 best hotels. It is a major focal point of all visitors to Bombay. Rooms are US$155 for standard rooms and up to US$700 for a suite, and (if you have the choice) are best at the top of the new building, with views overlooking the sea, or in one of the large sea-facing rooms in the ‘old Taj’. Guests also get the fine swimming-pool, the famous health centre, an excellent discotheque and the resident astrologer. Food is superb. What the Times newspaper in London wrote in 1903 still applies, the Taj is ‘…the finest caravanserai in the East.’
Over at Nariman Point, the soaring Oberoi Towers (tel 2024343, cable OBHOTEL, tix 84153 OBBY IN, fax 022-2043282, 2041505) is the tallest building in India, with 35 storeys. Efficient and personal, it has an opulent reception lounge and is superbly located for shopping centres and the airport. Overlooking the Arabian Sea on all sides, it offers elegantly furnished rooms (meticulously colour-matched) at US$155 single, US$170 double. For stunning views over Marine Drive and Back Bay, get one as high up as possible. Facilities include six speciality restaurants, massive swimming- pool, high-rise landscaped garden and vast shopping arcade. Only one other hotel comes close to this one and it’s next door. Unmatched facilities and designer elegance are the keynotes of The Oberoi Bombay, Nariman Point (tel 2025757, cable OBBY IN, tlx 011-82337, fax 022-2043282, 2041505). This new structure (opened 1987) features an imposing 11-storey atrium, a high-level pool with cascading waterfall, a string quartet in the polished granite lobby, and a futuristic ‘environmental unit’ in the health club (lie back and computer-control your sauna, steam-bath, jacuzzi, sun-tan, even tropical shower). Geared to the top corporate business traveller, the decor may lack personality, but all standards are very high. There’s a 24-hour business centre, 
an exclusive Supper Club, and every conceivable five-star amenity. In addition to three select restaurants and a roof-top bar, guests arriving in the dead of night are greeted by an immaculately turned-out butler bearing gifts. His first question will be: ‘Does sir/madam prefer the juice or the champagne?’ Rooms are priced at US$200 single, US$215 double. They are all beautifully furnished, and command prime views of the metropolis and the sea.
Fourth down the list, and probably more in the range of the general traveller, is Taj Group’s Hotel President, 90 Cuffe Parade, Colaba (tel 2150808, tlx 011-84135, fax 022-2151201). This hotel remains one of the warmest, most pleasant upmarket hotels in India—a refreshing contrast to large businessman’s hotels like The Oberoi. Many couples and families stay at the President: they like its informal atmosphere and relaxing pool, its famous service and food, and its cosy, stylish rooms—more reasonable at US$125 single, US$140 double.
Other luxury and five-star hotels are located in the suburbs and toward the airport. At Juhu Beach, 25 km (151/2 miles) from the city centre but only 7 km (4 3/4 miles) from the airport are a range of properties. The Centaur Hotel Juhu Beach (tel 6113090, fax 022-6116343) has every conceivable facility and rooms from US$95. The Holiday Inn (tel 6204444, fax 022-6204452) has rooms from US$100. The Ramada Inn Palm Grove (tel 6112323, fax 022-6113682) has rooms from US$95. Nearer town is the Welcomegroup Searock Sheraton (tel 6425454, tix 011-71230, fax 022-6408046) at Land’s End, Bandra. The Searock has good restaurants and for those who overindulge, an excellent health club. Rooms are from US$120.
One of India’s best hotels is located next to the international airport at Sahar. The Leela Kempinski Bombay (tel 6363636, tlx 011-79236, fax 022-6360606, 6341865) has excellent service, good rooms from US$150, good restaurants and a health club.
Mid-range (US$25-100 per room night)
The Ambassador, Veer Nariman Rd, Churchgate (tel 2041131, tlx 011-82918, 022- 204
0004), has a good central location, popular roof-top revolving restaurant, useful facilities, and attractive single/double rooms from US$75. A less expensive hotel on Marine Drive is Hotel Nataraj (tel 2044161, fax 022-2043864) with rooms from Rs1200. Its advantage is the classiest disco in town—RGs—but otherwise lacks charm. At Santa Cruz (domestic airport) The Centaur Hotel has 24 check-in/checkout facilities and is only walking distance from the domestic airport. Rooms are from US$80. A Colaba option is Fariyas, 25 Arthur Street (tel 2042911) with good restaurants, including a roof garden, and rooms from Rs1200.
Budget (under US$25/Rs750 per room night)
In the downtown area of the city there are two particularly fine hotels offering mid-range standards at a relatively low price. Hotel Apollo, Lansdowne Rd, behind Regal Cinema, Colaba (tel 2020223) is well known for style and comfort. It has a nice restaurant, attentive service, and pleasant air-con rooms from Rs700. Ask for one with a sea view. Even better is Hotel Diplomat, 24-26 Merriwether Rd (tel 2021661), located just behind the Taj Hotel. It’s in serious need of renovation, but travellers still love it. Friendly staff, quiet location, homely atmosphere, and cosy, livable rooms (with TV and balcony) at Rs550. For good views of the Arabian Sea, try Sea Green Hotel (tel 222294) at 145 Marine Drive. Staff can be po-faced, but the rooms are good value at Rs350 single and Rs450 double. Don’t be fobbed off with one with (depressing) rear views of the cricket stadium. Another option is Shelly’s Hotel, 30 P.J. Ramchandani Marg (tel 240229, 240270), still very friendly, with rooms at Rs350 /500 with air-conditioning.
Moving up to the city, there’s Chateau Windsor Guest House, 86 Veer Nariman Rd, next to the
Ambassador Hotel (tel 2043376), a very friendly place with great roof views, useful facilities, and smart rooms (disinfected daily) from Rs250. A reasonable fallback is Hotel Oasis, 276 Shahid Bhagat Singh Rd, near the post office. This is a quiet, clean place with a good central location. Best rooms are the Rs350 air-con doubles.
Most budget travellers stay in the Colaba area, a number of ‘cheapies’ being situated just behind the Taj Hotel. Space and hygiene are at a premium. For maximum comfort, stay at Whalley’s Guest House, 41 Merriwether Rd (tel 234206). Renovated, this old favourite offers huge rooms, complete with verandahs and Victorian tubbaths on pedestals, at low rates (Rs200) and breakfast is included. Ask for a top-floor room with balcony overlooking the street. If you’re feeling more extravagant, splash out on one of the new air-conditioned double rooms with tiled bathrooms; they’re the perfect antidote to hot, steamy Bombay. Needless to say, the average backpacker still makes a beeline for popular Rex/Stiffles, round the corner from the Taj Hotel. Just like its more feted neighbour, this place has become an institution with rooms at Rs1200 . Despite its many drawbacks travellers love it, for the warm family atmosphere j and the grim-faced security guards, keeping Colaba’s relentless touts at bay. One place that will never change is Salvation Army’s Red Shield Guest House, just across _he road from Rex. It’s the obvious shoestring fallback, with cheap dormitory beds at Rs75, inclusive of three meals (you have to get up for breakfast: a booming gong sounds at an unearthly hour in the morning until all guests are at table). It’s a great lace for meeting fellow travellers, but has poor luggage security. Samson Guest House, 2 minutes’ 
walk from the Taj, is a useful alternative (Rs250). This place is run I with efficiency by a tolerant ex-police officer, and has clean, comfy double rooms (with common bathroom). The nearby Shilton Hotel is tricky to find (look for the ‘Sex and Alcohol Clinic’ next to the movie theatre, by the circle) but is a real bargain with tiny, but spotless air-conditioned double rooms at Rs200. Equally good value is provided by Seashore Hotel at 1-49 Kamal Mansion, Arthur Bunder Rd (tel 2874237). Nice people and lovely large sea-view rooms.
Given the difficulty of finding rooms in Colaba at high season, you might do well to stay in the city instead. There are a few good places here, very well-located for the post office, tourist office, VT station and the better cinemas. Try first City Lodge, 121 City Terrace, W.H. Marg, opposite Victoria Terminus station (tel 265515), which is also a tailor’s and cloth merchant’s shop. Ask for either of the Rs150 roof-top doubles (rooms 5 and 6), which have first-rate city views. This place is run by a very pleasant family. Alternatively, there’s Rupam Lodge, 239 P. D’Mello Rd, just past the post office (tel 267103/4), with 24-hour room service, telephones in rooms, and (a real rarity) thick mattresses on beds. It’s rather run-down nowadays, but rooms are still cheap and it’s often full. For a few rupees more, you can enjoy a much comfier stay at Lord Hotel, just off P. D’Mello Rd, at 301 Mangalore St. This has friendly staff, popular beer bar, and really nice rooms. With all the above hotels, don’t forget the golden rule: the early bird gets the vacant room! In Bandra and many of the midtown areas small guest-houses have recently become very popular. The tourist office also keeps a list of paying guest accommodation.
