For luxury, stay at the Samudra Beach Resort, Ahmedpur Mandvi; book through Gujarat Tourism. There’s nothing else. There’s also precious little in the middle range—in fact, just one room. This is the VIP Suite at the Hotel Mozambique, off the for Rs25-70; a pleasant sun-roof, an adequate restaurant and a useful car hire service for sightseeing. Nilesh Guest House, near the fish market, is an interesting place. It has the hardest beds in town, in spartan but clean ‘cells’ for Rs25-70 but has lots of character. Food, service and staff alternate wildly between sheer excellence and total failure. Its best feature is the bar cum restaurant where colourful locals inflict large quantities of bevra country liquor (Diu’s favourite tipple) on unwary tourists.
You eat in your hotel. When you want a change, you eat in a different hotel. Best hotel food is at the Samudra (pricey, but worth it) followed by the cheaper PWD and Apna. The only restaurant in Diu not in a hotel is opposite the bus-stand. It’s called Deepee, and has marvellous tub ice-cream, good dosas and snacks. The Saraswati Hotel opposite has tasty sweets, and is where everybody goes for breakfast. In Diu, try the seafood, the Gujarati thalis and, especially, the lassie.
The Tourist Office, Marine House, Nagoa Road, near Bunder Chowk (about 185 m: 200 yds right, off the ferry) is poor, and tourist literature is decades out of date. It’s supposed to be open 9.30 am-1.15 pm, 2-5.45 pm, but the tourist officer is often taking it easy on Nagoa beach. In season, there are minibus conducted tours of the island (11.30 am-1.30 pm daily, except Monday; Rs10), but it’s very often ‘off season’. The post office is next to Goa Travels, opposite the ferry jetty. In the road behind it, the State Bank of Saurashtra is the best place in town to change money.