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Sights Round-up

Sights Round-up

Kanheri Caves-Juhu Beach-St John’s Church-Chowpatty Beach-Cross Maidan
If you enjoyed Elephanta, there’s a second state-conducted tour out to Kanheri Caves (42 km: 26 1/2 miles). This is one of the largest groups of Buddhist caves (109 in all) in western India. They are set high up on a hill, in a forest surround (in fact the edge of the Borivali National Park. Dating from around the 2nd to 9th centuries AD, the earlier (Hinayana) caves have been excavated from a huge circular rock. Most of them are simple monks’ cells of limited interest, but caves 1, 2 and 3 are noteworthy for their massive pillars, sculptures and stupas. Cave 3 is the famous Chaitya Cave with icons and a long, pillared colonnade. This tour also includes a visit to Juhu Beach (18 km: 11 miles). This is a long beach (5 km: 3 miles) fringed with palms and coconut trees: a popular week-round picnic spot, with good beach entertainments at weekend& Juhu has lots of big hotels, but lousy swimming (highly unsanitary).

Back in Colaba, Sassoon Dock (1.5 km: 1 mile) down Shahid Bhagat Singh Rd from the Bunder is a great place to watch all the fishing boats unloading their catch around dawn. While you’re in the area, walk 10 minutes further south to Colaba’s most significant monument: the elegant St John’s (Afghan) Church, built in 1857 in memory of British soldiers who died in the first Afghan War. Its tall spire has become a familiar landmark for sailors far out at sea.

For a good evening out, start with a high-rise cocktail at the Oberoi’s roof-top restaurant, the Malabar, and watch the sun set gloriously over Back Bay. Then cruise up to Chowpatty Beach (4 km: 2 1/2 miles) by cab. This is where tired Bombay businessmen come, with friends and families, to wind down after a hard day making money. After tucking into typical Bombay snacks like bhel puri (spicy mix of puffed rice, peanuts, onions, potatoes and chutneys) and chaat (fruit and veg tossed in a banana leaf—probably best after you have acquired enough immunities) they enjoy a relaxing evening massage. The beach is lined with expert masseurs. One end of the beach is a regular meeting area for Bombay’s gay community. Come to Chowpatty for authentic local atmosphere, and for the popular view of Malabar Hill, beautifully lit after dusk. This is the renowned ‘Queen’s Necklace’ around the ‘throat’ of Back Bay. Swimming, by the way, is not possible here.

Finish off at Cross Maidan, in the heart of the city. These urban gardens are overlooked by Bombay University (a wonderful gothic horror, dominated by the 80-m high Rajabai Clock Tower) and surrounding High Court buildings topped by Justice and Mercy figures. In contrast to this colonial austerity, the Maidan itself is a popular evening exhibition centre of twinkling lights and general jollification. There’s nearly always something going on here. Perhaps an inflatable Taj Mahal at the entrance and a novelty fun-fair going on inside: stoical Brahmin families traipsing unamusedly through the ‘Baby Diamond Laughing House’, films about lion-taming playing to packed houses in the ‘Family Planning Video Booth’, and hordes of ticketless local youths clambering over the scaffolding of the ’32-foot-height Ropeway’.

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