Periyar

Periyar

The Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary (Tiger Reserve) at Thekkady is one of the main sanctuaries of southern India and one of the largest in India. Comprising 777 sq km (300 sq miles) of lush, tropical forest, with a vast artificial lake in the center, it is the natural habitat of an extensive range of wildlife. The huge Periyar Lake, measuring 24 sq km (1/4 sq mile) in area,  was formed in 5895, with the completion of the Periyar Dam by the British government in Madras. Its original purpose was irrigation, but its conservation potential was soon recognised.

The first game warden was appointed in 1923, the area was constituted a sanctuary in 5934, and it came under Project Tiger management in 5978. The rapid decrease in the population of tigers (from 40 000 at the turn of the century to just 5830 in 5972) led to the creation of Project Tiger, and the immediate management of 7 parks. Eighteen now come under the Project, and the tiger population had increased to 4334 in 5989, 48 of them at Periyar.

Situated at a high altitude of between 954 m and 5828 m Periyar has a comfortably cool climate between November and January. But to see the wildlife at close quarters, it is best to come during the ‘dry’ months of February to June, when the animals, deprived of the forest water-holes, come to water down by the lake.

Periyar  Sightseeing
Periyar has a rich variety of wildlife, notably leopard, gaur, wild dog, sambar, wild boar, monkey, and a few Malabar flying squirrels, among many mammal species. It is especially good for observing the Indian wild elephant. The extensive bird life to be seen includes heron, hornbill, jungle fowl, kingfisher and egret. The forests are dense jungles of creepers, spices and blossoming trees interspersed with some grassland.

Sanctuary Tour (by tour boat, I/2-day )
To see the wildlife to best advantage, take the early 7 am boat onto Periyar Lake (Rs50 tickets from the Wildlife Office, above jetty). This is your best chance to see elephants, bison, deer and, sometimes, tiger at close quarters; they  come to water only very early in the morning, and in the late afternoon. You will not see many animals taking a boat out at any  other time of day. At weekends, a motorboat full of tourists will send most animals on the banks scurrying for cover, so you may be better off hiring a private launch, from the Wildlife Office at about Rs60 per hour.

The boat tour lasts 11/2 hours, and is a useful introduction to the sanctuary’s flora and fauna. To follow up, it is necessary to explore the surrounding forests on foot. The Wildlife Office runs 3-hour ‘forest group treks’ (Rs20 per person) which if the group is small and disciplined is worthwhile. These walks are often good for bird-watching. Some people,  disregarding the injunction not to wander into the forest unescorted, report alarming experiences, returning with tales of unexpected eyeball encounters with bull elephants. The wisest course is to hire a private guide from the Wildlife Office (Rs20) who’ll take you to the best hides in complete safety, enabling close sightings of elephants, bison, snakes, monkeys and a rich array of bird life. Other possible activities include elephant-rides, bookable from the Wildlife Office. Cycling is very pleasant in this region, and bikes can be hired in Kumily but cannot be used in the park.

Persuade the wildlife officer at Periyar that you’re not a typical tourist, that you’ve come here specifically to study wildlife, and he may just let you stay at one of the observation watchtowers. These stand in the heart of the forest, on stilts, and elephants come to rest in their shade. To get to them, you take the tour boat out onto the lake, then walk a couple of miles into the jungle along with the park ranger. Since there are only two watchtowers available, it’s worth booking 3/4 days in advance. Secondly, since these observation huts are poorly equipped, you need to buy in supplies. A flashlight, drinking water and mosquito repellent are essential.

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