The gateway to Kerala’s beautiful backwaters, Kollam is situated on the edge of the Ashtamudi Lake, ‘lake of eight creeks’, amid luxuriant coconut groves and cashew plantations. It is an ancient commercial centre, used by the Phoenicians, Persians, Greeks, Romans, Arabs and the Chinese. Even today, you can see the Chinese 
fishing nets, more commonly associated with Cochin further north dotted round the lakes here. Kollam city, established in the 9th century, is associated with the origin of the Malayalam-era ‘Kollavarsham’, which began in AD 825. In more recent times, its commercial wealth made it a bone of contention between Portuguese, Dutch and English trading interests. Today, it is just a sleepy market-town of red-tiled wooden houses and winding backstreets, an interesting study of a typical Keralan township. But few people linger here more than a day and the big attraction in these parts are the famous backwaters, best visited from December to February. By March, the heat and the mosquitoes are oppressive.
WHAT TO SEE
Arriving in Kollam, go straight to the boat jetty, a minute’s walk below the bus stand, to check the departure time of the morning backwaters’ boat. You’ll need to arrive early to get a seat. Use any free time in Kollam to stroll around the pretty town, or to visit Thangasseri Beach (3 km; 2 miles) for its sands, lighthouse and Portuguese/ Dutch fort ruins. For a short while Thangasseri was a British trading outpost. Kuttanadu Backwaters are unforgettable. The 8 1/2-hour boa t journey takes you from narrow canals canopied by dense foliage out into large inland lagoons framed by dense tropical palm groves. Fishermen stand waist-high in the waters and cast their nets. Families of river-dwellers pass by in narrow punted dugouts.
Wooden vessels with primitive Chinese sails drift up the waterways, stately and silent. 
Children run down from Portuguese churches and schools to welcome your approach. In the lush season (February), the boat carves a plough through canals carpeted with blossoming water-hyacinths and lichen. At sunset, you chug into Alleppey along a corridor of gently swaying coco-paims , backing onto brilliant-green meadows. The trip is a perfect delight. Take plenty of camera film (the views cry out to be photographed) and lots of food, because there are only two stops, at about 1 pm and 4 pm, for local thalis. Try to get a berth on the boat roof; you’re generally allowed up, depending on the mood of the crew, a short while after departure from Kollam. A couple of rupees baksheesh may be in order, but it’s well worth it.
WHERE TO STAY
In Kollam, there’s the popular Government Guest House (tel 76456), a former British Residency with lovely gardens and charming rooms from Rs100. It has pleasant Keralan-style food and a useful jetty with boat-hire from 10 am to 4 pm daily. Rickshaws run out here from Kollam jetty or rail station. The more central Hotel Sudarshan, Parameswar Nagar, 10 minutes’ walk up from jetty (tel 75322, tlx 0886-292 HSN IN) has single rooms at Rs200, doubles at Rs250 and is a good place to eat. There’s similar quality at Hotel Karthika, Paikada St (tel 76240, tlx 0886-284) with ordinary rooms from Rs35 single, Rs60 double, and five air-conditioned rooms at around Rs175. All hotels have a problem with mosquitoes, so bring lots of repellent.
EATING OUT
For good Indian, Chinese and continental food, try the Hotel Sudarshan (two restaurants, plus air-con bar); for cheaper vegetarian meals, visit the Hotel Guru Prasad on Main St. For a big breakfast before the boat trip (you may not eat again all day) try Mahalaxshmi Lodge opposite the bus-stand. The Indian Coffee House on Main Street is good for snacks and coffee.
GENERAL INFORMATION
There is a tourist information desk at the Government Guest House (tel 76456). The post office and Bank of India are both at the top of Iarameswar Nagar, 1 km (2/3 mile) above the bus-stand. Boats can also be hired from the Kollam Boat Club (tel 72519) or through the tourist office.
