These are two of the most pleasant beaches in India; not the best maybe, but certainly a couple of the quietest and, so far, the least spoilt. Both have decent food and lodging facilities, and after exploring Diu you’ll just want to put your feet up at one or the other and mellow out for a few days. Don’t feel guilty. Where else in India can you do this kind of thing?
Nagoa
Nagoa beach lies 7 km (4 1/2 miles) out of Diu town and is best approached by 
local bus (2 per day, at 7 am and 11 am) or by push-bike (30 mins). Auto-rickshaws ferry couples; agree on the rate first. It shouldn’t be more than Rs10-15.
An idyllic spot, Nagoa is a long crescent-shaped beach nestling within a quiet, protected cove, fringed by lazy palms and facing onto the Arabian Sea. It’s a beautiful setting: the white, clear sands are ideal for sunbathing, the calm blue sea is very safe for swimming. Out of the tourist season, there are rarely more than a dozen people here. These are often travellers, perhaps like yourselves, taking a break from so-called ‘real’ India.
At the end of a hard day’s sunbathing, admire spectacular sunsets from the small rock viewpoint at the top of the beach. For a cool, pleasant diversion from the beach itself, visit the small sleepy village of Bucharvada just behind it. Shoestring travellers can rent huts here but they’re pretty spartan and often infested by insects. The obvious place to stay at Nagoa is the excellent Ganga-Sagar Guest House, run by friendly Haridas Samji. He lets out clean, simple and airy single rooms very cheaply (ask for cool sea-view top rooms). Common bathrooms only, but with the k Arabian Sea on your doorstep who needs a private one? Good meals service (squid, lobster and prawn, right off the beach), good bar and shop, and relaxing garden patio. Lots of animals, including two useless watchdogs (asleep/dead), the only fat cat in India, and an itinerant toad.
Ahmedpur Mandvi
This is the jet-set beach, overlooked by a luxury resort hotel. It faces onto the island of Diu 
from the mainland, and is approached from Ghoghla by rickshaw (2 km; 1 14 miles) or by walking along the beach (1 km; 3/4 mile). Head right from Ghoghla jetty. Unless you have lots of money, keep Diu as your base and visit this beach as a ii day-excursion. The local bus from Oona to Ghoghla will if requested make a stop here, which is very useful for those in need of a cool swim when returning to Diu from hot, sticky Sasan-Gir or Somnath.
Ahmedpur Mandvi may have more people (generally rich Indians) than Nagoa, but it also has better food, accommodation and facilities. Samudra Beach Resort (tel 2216) has attractive two-bedded cottages at Rs400-600, a fine restaurant and, what a I pity, a video parlour. A wide range of water-sports include boating, water-skiing, para-sailing, surfing and ‘water-cycling’—jet-skiing—and great fun. For details of other beaches and day-excursions, contact the tourist office.
SHOPPING
Ai There is little to buy here, but few people care: Diu is quite free of insistent touts ‘ wanting to drag you off to dubious silk shops or gem factories. Visit the very small bazaar behind the market square for trinkets and novelties. The islanders once produced attractive items made of tortoiseshell and ivory, but trade in both materials is now banned by Indian and international law.
RECREATION
The best water-sports at Ahmedpur Mandvi; the best swimming at Nagoa Beach. Entertainment is limited. If you can penetrate the maze of tiny, narrow and nonsigned backstreets to locate its one cinema, the Aradhana, then you’re doing pretty well. The cinema apparently shows English films once a month. In the evenings, you make your own amusement. This generally means a visit to one of Diu’s many bars, tavernas or cafes. Treat the popular local ‘hooch’with respect.
