This long beach is an 11-km (7-mile) strip of fine sandy foreshore known as the ‘pride of Madras’. A favourite evening resort of Madras citizens, it is fronted by gardens -‘ fringed promenades dotted with statues and parks dedicated to prominent Tamil writers and educators.Turn right down South Beach Rd (the north part of the beach, round Georgetown, is too rough for safe swimming) until you come to Gandhiji Statue (2 km; 1 1/4 miles). Just behind this is the new Lighthouse, where you can climb 46 m for marvellous views of the coastline. If you want to go swimming here, the better stretches of Marina Beach are south of this point.Continuing, it’s a scenic half-hour journey via San Thome Basilica (turn off right here down San Thome High Rd) into the quiet, rural Adyar precinct. Past the derelict Ayappa Temple, which appears on the left some 2 km (1/4 miles) inland, you’ll turn left into Dr Durgabai Deshmukh Rd, which takes you over the wide Adyar Lake.Over the bridge, turn left again into Besant Avenue Rd for the Theosophical Society. The approach along pretty country lanes is the perfect introduction to the 270 acres of beautiful gardens within the society’s grounds. Established in New York in 1875 by Madam Blavatsky and Col. Olcott, the Theosophical Society moved to Madras in 1882. It was formed to promulgate the study of comparative religions, philosophy and science. After its move to Madras the society was run by Annie Besant. The vast campus houses a superb library with 17 000 manuscripts, 
has shrines to all faiths and also one of the world’s largest banyan trees, which spreads over 3716 sq m (open 8-11 am, 2-5 pm Mon-Fri; 8-11 am Sat; closed Sunday). The gardens are open from sunrise to sunset.Just 10 minutes ride past the Society, Elliot’s Beach appears on your left. For a quick, quiet swim try the beach off V Avenue Rd. Then return to the main road, continue down to IV Avenue Rd for refreshments at the Palace Tea and Coffee Centre, which serves delicious samosas, ice-cream and snacks. The beach here is the best for miles, though be prepared for lots of local interest. Friendly fishermen take it in turns to ‘guard’ visitors, and mind your clothes and belongings while you’re in the sea. There’s lodging to be had here at Elliot’s Beach too; for a few thousand rupees per month, you can get a beach chalet for two. Ask around in the quiet residential road backing off the beach, or ring Mrs Savitri (tel 479777/412134) for details of her furnished chalets and apartments in Besant Nagar.
Madras’ best beach, Golden Beach, lies a further 10 km (6 1/4 miles) south. If this is too much to handle by cycle (and it probably is), then you can get there by bus from Elliot’s Beach, and return here to pick up your bike afterwards. Alternatively, be at Kapaleeshwara Temple for sunset return over Adyar River, go straight ahead at the end of Dr Durgabai Deshmukh Rd, up R.K. Mutt Rd for 2 km (1 1/4 miles). The evening lights over the tank are beautiful, and so is the ceremony when the gods are brought out and shown the setting sun, to the accompaniment of bells, flutes, drums and invocations.
RECREATION
Madras is the centre of Bharatnatyam , possibly the oldest classical dance-form in India. Traditionally performed by young girls dedicated to south Indian temples (devadasis), it is today performed solo by women who describe not only passages from religious texts, but also the varying moods of a maiden in love. Madras has a dozen good culture centres—notably Kalakshetra Centre, Music Academy, and Raja Annamalai Hall—and the day to go is Sunday. A great introduction to Tamil dance and music forms including Bharahmtyam, folk dances and shadowpuppet plays are the nightly cultural programmes 
(6.30-7.30 pm) at Sittrarangam mini-theatre at Island Grounds, near the fort. TNTDC tourist office often lays on free transport there, and admission is free. To plan your entertainment programme—dance and culture shows, cinemas, drama and tourist fairs, temple celebrations, music exhibitions, craft presentations and even circuses, buy a Friday edition of the Hindu or the Indian Express newspapers which carry a full listing of upcoming events.
For golf, apply to the Cosmopolitan Golf Club, Mount Rd (tel 849946) to use the sandy but shaded 18-hole course. The Race Course near Guindy rail station holds meets most weekends from November to March. Riding, including lessons, is possible throughout the year (apply to Madras Race Club, tel 431171, for temporary membership). There’s instant membership for guests at the Boat Club. Swimming is possible, both at the New Woodlands (7.30 am-noon, 2-4.30 pm) and the nearby Hotel Savera, in luxury pools for a small charge. If you want to swim in the sea, the cleanest and safest stretch is at Mylapore Beach, near Mahatma Gandhi’s statue on Beach Road, but avoid crowded Sundays. For squash, tennis and indoor games apply in writing to the Secretary of the Madras Gymkhana (tel 447863).
SHOPPING
For silk, the best buy, visit Co-optex just past the museum on N.S.R. Bose Rd. It’s a huge place, with a whole ground floor of quality silks, and fabulous South Indian handloom fabrics. All prices are fixed. There are other branches of Co-optex throughout Madras and most towns in Tamil Nadu. If you find some nice material here, then have it made up into a dress or suit by Chandron, one of Madras’s excellent tailors. You’ll find him in the India Silk House (P) Ltd, 846 Mount Rd (tel 844930).
India Silk House is one of many emporia on Mount Road that specialise in fabrics. Right next door, Khadi Gramodyog Bhavan has a fine range of handloomcotton fabrics and furnishings at reasonable prices. For general handicrafts, try the interesting Indian Art Museum, 151 Mount Rd, which does nice jewellery and sandalwood carvings. Or the more exclusive 
Cane and Bamboo, 26 Commander-in- Chief Rd, Egmore, which deals in high-quality rosewood furniture, batiks and chess sets. Similar stuff, and rather cheaper, can be found at Swallows Handicrafts Industrial Co-operative society—a 10-minute bus ride (No. 56M or 56N) from Triplicane. Ask to be put off at ‘Swallows Stop’. Open from 10 am-5.30 pm, Monday- Saturday, this little co-op often has sales of high-quality clothes.
Spencer’s offbeat department store on Mount Rd is being rebuilt after a recent fire. Latest-design leather articles are available at the in-house arcades of the Taj and Connemara hotels and in shops along Mount Road. Madras is a major centre of the leather boom and the city is full of haute couture leather boutiques, offering good quality briefcases, handbags, jackets, coats and shoes at knock-down prices. For flashy, flamboyant stuff, try Iguana Boutique, at the WelcomGroup Adyar Park lobby. For soft leather in more subdued styles, go to Fashion ‘N’ Gems on Nungambakkam High Rd.
The best general market is the large T. Mangaramteo complex in Evening Bazaar, N.S. Bose Road, where you can buy practically anything, and a good deal cheaper than in emporia. But bargain hard. If you’ve only got time for one shopping outing, head for Victoria Technical Institute (VTI), 765 Mount Rd. This has practically everything under one roof, and prices are fair. Shops and stores in Madras are open daily (except Sun) 9 am-8 pm.
