Another small market town, Alleppey’s curious maze of bridges and canals has earned it the title ‘Venice of the East’. The centre of Kerala’s famous coir products: mainly yarn, mats and rope, it is otherwise unremarkable. It comes to life once a year, for the spectacular Nehru Cup Snake Boat Race, held on the second Saturday of August.
SIGHTSEEING
For travellers, Alleppey is simply a jumping-off point for another 
amazing trip up the Keralan waterways. Many find the shorter 2 1/2-hour journey from here to Kottayam far more satisfactory than the preceding trip from Quilon: you don’t tend to get jaded with the scenery.
Furthermore, being so near to the extensive Vembanad Lake stretching north to Cochin, Alleppey is a major centre of inland water transport, so there’s a good deal more to see on the lakes. It’s a very scenic run, with many country craft, laden with coir goods and cashew, gliding up the canals. Also some lovely inland lagoons, fringed by thin green necklaces of vegetation. The narrower stretches of water are often covered with a purple-green blanket of blossoming water-lilies. The final approach into Kottayam is down picturesque avenues of lush tropical trees. There are a number of boats leaving for Kottayam daily. But for maximum comfort and superior scenery, an early morning or mid-afternoon departure is best.
ACCOMMODATION
Alleppey Prince Hotel (tel 3752, tlx 0883-202) has flexible rates; do not hesitate to bargain. Situated on A.S. Rd, a long 2 km (1 1/4 miles) from the town centre it works hard for custom. Touts selling this hotel board your boat just as it drifts into Alleppey. Rooms are from Rs325 single and Rs400 double. The Prince has a swimming-pool, a superb restaurant and a boat.
The Komala (tel 3631), opposite the jetty has clean rooms and a good restaurant. The old travellers’ haunt, St George’s Lodge (tel 3373), in C.C.N.B. Rd has rooms from Rs40, and it’s useful for money-exchange (Canara Bank is in St George’s Buildings), but the food is quite bad. Kerala Hotel, across the bridge from the jetty, has cleaner rooms with bathrooms attached at Rs50 single.
EATING OUT
Far and away the best place for food, drink and relaxation is the Indian Coffee House, 1.5 km ( 2/3 mile) south of the boat jetty, near Hotel Ashoka, with Raj-style waiters and decor, cheap non-vegetarian food and excellent coffee. For good Rs5 thalis, try Vijaya Restaurant in Jetty Rd. Otherwise, check out the inexpensive vegetarian places near Raja Tourist Home. The Arun Restaurant at the Komala Hotel is considered by some the best in Alleppey. August.
